Check exhaust light after changing air intake?

[CSR]

Hi All,

I replaced my airbox with the Gruppe M air intake this afternoon and drove home fine. I went out for another drive after dinner and about 20 minutes in I noticed a "check exhaust system" light on the dash. Now, I have no idea if this is caused by the changing of the air intake or because I bottomed out a few days ago and scraped the exhaust pretty hard, but would rather avoid going to a mechanic if it's something I can identify myself.

Has anyone heard of the exhaust system light coming on after changing air intake or is it something I should get looked at by a mechanic?? Anything I can see by looking myself??

Thanks,
CSR

[Corey_R]

I may help to mention what car you have and what other mods as well

Changing the intake shouldn't normally make a difference, however, depending on the car and other mods, it can...

[Greg Roles]

Find someone with Vag Com and pull up the error code for a lookie see.

[CSR]

Sorry :| it's an MKV R32.

I'll have a look at work if I can find anything physically wrong, then will have to use the cable I guess!

[CSR]

Here's a picture of the install..





Had a scan today and this is what I got:

Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-BDB.lbl
Part No SW: 022 906 032 KG HW: 022 906 032 GP
Component: R32-DQ-EU4 G 1067
Revision: 1QH04--- Serial number: VWX7Z0H53N27T6
Coding: 0000178
Shop #: WSC 65728 1018 854933
VCID: 5A954466EC8F

1 Fault Found:
000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 61572 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:21:44

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1340 /min
Load: 36.5 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 32.0°C
Temperature: 24.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.303 V

Readiness: 0000 0000


I assume there's something wrong with the cables, even though we didn't really do anything except cut the electrical tape bundling all the wires together so the MAF sensor one was clear to go further.
I'm 99.9% sure we didn't cut any wires as everything looks perfect, but nothing changed...

Anyone have any suggestions to fix this? Should I just take it to an auto sparky and see if he can replace the cable for the MAF sensor?

[DNA Tuning]

Looks like just a once off; the fault frequency is only 1. Did you by any chance accidentally leave it unplugged when you first turned on the car after installing the intake? If so, then the light should go away after awhile (say a day or two).

Since you have scanning capabilities; then you can log the air mass meter data while driving and it'll be apparent whether or not it is working properly.

[CSR]

Yeah that must be what happened, I read it a little bit better the second time around and just cleared the fault code and it went away. Don't think I unplugged it when turned it on but who knows...

Now that I have scanning capabilities I won't be happy until I have 0 fault codes...damn!!

[CSR]

:| I spoke too soon..Drove to work this morning and then driving back home the light came on again. Not even going to bother scanning as i'm 100% sure it's the same problem. Anyone got any ideas? Could it be cutting the electrical tape we damaged some of the cables for the MAF sensor, or that they are reaching too far?


Edit - Ok so i've confirmed that the MAF is not working, I was trying to log the air flow but it kept showing at 0.00 so there's something obviously wrong. I can still hear the engine sucking in air but it's just not showing up. Any steps I can take to ensure that it's really the MAF and not something else playing funny? Also, are there any problems with driving the car with a broken MAF? so far doesn't seem like there's much difference, though i'm not an expert..

[DNA Tuning]

Most likely a wire somewhere has broken given that this only started happening after you installed the intake; if you have a multimeter it would make it much easier to diagnose. Happy to help you diagnose if you can't wait until after the easter break.

With an unmodified vehicle, it's not too bad driving it around with a broken MAF; the ECU will guess how much fuel to put in based on other load scenarios such as throttle plate opening, rpm, etc. but I would advise you do not drive full throttle as, if the ECU is not providing enough fuel, you could risk further problems.

[Transporter]

:| I spoke too soon..Drove to work this morning and then driving back home the light came on again. Not even going to bother scanning as i'm 100% sure it's the same problem. Anyone got any ideas? Could it be cutting the electrical tape we damaged some of the cables for the MAF sensor, or that they are reaching too far?


Edit - Ok so i've confirmed that the MAF is not working, I was trying to log the air flow but it kept showing at 0.00 so there's something obviously wrong. I can still hear the engine sucking in air but it's just not showing up. Any steps I can take to ensure that it's really the MAF and not something else playing funny? Also, are there any problems with driving the car with a broken MAF? so far doesn't seem like there's much difference, though i'm not an expert..

As DNA Tuning says DVM would help here,
here is how you could check MAF sensor with DVM.