Which cams and engine management for ABF ??

**SiLe-R** · 07-02-2009, 12:21 PM

Hi all...

Which cams are good for street ride? for ABF engine? (degree and brand pls)

http://www.catcams.be/800x600/prod01...5?PN76612xx.js ( this ? )

And which management system? How is the SMT6 or similar piggyback systems? what r u propose?

I have Raceland 4.2.1 headers and custom coldair intake...

I want about 190-200HP (engine)... with original intake and throttle, what r u propose for my ABF ?

Thanks...

**Oneofthegreats** · 08-02-2009, 05:13 PM

I reckon a split profile set of Schrick 268/276 should get you that power along with a port clean up & couple of other mod's.

Them or something with at least 270+ degree's.

I'd do a search on other various forum's too eg. vwvortex etc. & check some other setups too!

As far as engine management goes?

I hope someone else can chime in with some info.

I'd say strip it & go full programmable! haha

**william** · 08-02-2009, 07:00 PM

i have microtech and im forever trying to get the idle right i say leave it standard and get it chipped especially as its your daily save for a turbo kit if you want power.

**SiLe-R** · 09-02-2009, 04:33 AM

Originally Posted by william

i have microtech and im forever trying to get the idle right i say leave it standard and get it chipped especially as its your daily save for a turbo kit if you want power.

Thanx mate, but I dont like turbo FWD cars, i like N/A engines, high rpms

**Valver.** · 09-02-2009, 09:01 AM

Is the head standard, as that has a pretty big affect on what cams you can run?

In any case, there's absolutely no point modifying one until you have a shorter final drive ratio and a lighter flywheel, otherwise you're just pushing the powerband higher and it takes too long to get to it - they also fall off cam easily in tighter corners as 2nd gear, especially, is too tall.

**Valver.** · 09-02-2009, 09:03 AM

P.S. There are ways around the computer tune - no point changing it if you're staying with normal aspiration.

**SiLe-R** · 09-02-2009, 09:24 AM

Originally Posted by Valver.

P.S. There are ways around the computer tune - no point changing it if you're staying with normal aspiration.

which ways?

**Valver.** · 09-02-2009, 01:06 PM

Originally Posted by SiLe-R

which ways?

Are you in Turkey, or Germany (which it says on Vortex?)

If you're in Western Europe, you need to get on the motorway and take the car to JD Engineering (Jereon Dik) in The Netherlands who can live tune the ECU... He's also built some of the fastest VWs in the world.

If you're in the East, you need to see Basil Daham from Daham.org who will setup a plug and play piggyback system under the table for a very good price.

Any bench-tuned chip isn't much good with cams (unless it is one of the engine upgrade packages, which you can buy from DBilas - includes a camset and matched chip) as you really need to live tune the engine.

In any case, the setup of the head dictates which cams you should run. The 268/276 isn't ideal in a more agressively ported head as the poor exhaust port flow has usually been fixed (meaning you needn't hold the valves open for longer to account for it). In a very mild or standard head, the bigger exhaust cam is reasonably good. The ABF is quite easy to port compared to the KR one as there's more material to work with - you are removing material, just as much as reshaping the port, whereas with the 1.8 heads, you are mostly reshaping (within reason).

There are some very good gains to be had with headwork, but even more with improving the gearing. 3.67 is the standard final drive ratio - the most popular upgrade is a 3.94, which is a good compromise between acceleration and motorway comfort. 4.24 makes a very quick car, but its not ideal in Europe, I don't think.