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Thread: building a 2L 8v for turbo?

  1. #31
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    Those US kits arent compatable with our motors since they only got the ABA motor whereas we have the 2E. Also there have been concerns about the exhaust manifold and the clearance from the steering rack, oh and dont forget they have obd1 and 2 whereas we have none of that stuff.

    Soon ive got a 2l 8v motor out of my mk3 inc full loom waiting to be taken out of my car but it could be a while before its fully out.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golf Houso View Post
    Bloody hell, shouldof stuck with stock wheels and suspension and got a turbo kit for my car...
    yup you should have! the ULTIMATE sleeper
    VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life
    There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
    My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by peedman View Post
    Soon ive got a 2l 8v motor out of my mk3 inc full loom waiting to be taken out of my car but it could be a while before its fully out.
    cant put your motor in mate! '97 Polo, you have a '94 Golf, i need an engine that is AT LEAST a '97 otherwise i cant get it registered...
    VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life
    There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
    My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au

  4. #34
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    JESUS 12hrs on VWW and there's another thread full of misinformation

    4psi on a stock motor?! Try 15 at least It is down to the tune far and above anything else.

    $5000 for a 20vt? Try $15,000+ once you have a chassis within cooee of taking the power daily and have sorted all the many things out.

    There are no issues with steering rack clearance using a US spec turbo kit, it is the downpipe that may cause problems. The turbo also tends to sit close to the clutch and throttle cables, but this is easy to get around.

    Buying a kit is a bad idea full stop. The best and cheapest way is to max and match parts.

    Let's see where $2000 would get you...

    Turbo: $800-$1500
    Engine management: $2400
    Professional wire-in and tune: $2000
    Exhaust manifold: $500
    Oil lines: $200
    Head studs: $150
    Multi-layer De-comp setup: $200
    Clutch and flywheel machine: $800
    Breather setup: $200
    Exhaust: $1200 for something basic
    Injectors: $400
    Fuel setup: $500+
    Engine mounts: $200
    Basic replacement parts (gaskets, WP etc): $600
    Misc: at least another $800

    And that is doing it yourself!!!

    1976 Project Carbon Mk1 - Sold! | 2015 Lotus Exige Cup | F80 M3 Family Wheels

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by peedman View Post
    I didnt say 5k would be enough for a 20V turbo but if u list up the prices of converting the 8v assuming u cant weld and have to source most of the parts, the cost of building up the motor like forgies, piping, injectors, head rebuild, standalone, etc etc it is cheaper to go 20V. THEN u add ontop brakes, engineering, service items, rego.
    That is very true. You could build a 'ghetto' 8vT for less than a 20vT, but to do it properly ain't cheap

    It would be $5-6000ish with 2nd hand parts and management at a guess. 2 or 3 times that for a bling engine!

    1976 Project Carbon Mk1 - Sold! | 2015 Lotus Exige Cup | F80 M3 Family Wheels

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valver. View Post
    4psi on a stock motor?! Try 15 at least It is down to the tune far and above anything else.

    It's not about the tune at all; it's about the load on the pistons/rings/ringlands. You pressurise the cylinders through use of boost, and not many stock turbo motors can handle 15psi boost for long, so i really don't think a stock n/a motor can. Tune has to do with if the motor detonates and dies through pinging. If you run alot of pressure, it's going to be your rings and/or ringlands that go prematurely. 4psi is regarded as safe boost for a stock n/a motor; anything else is technical/varies depending upon decompressing the motor and size of the turbo.

    As mentioned before; i'm not familiar with the specs of these motors, nor what they can handle, but 15psi through an internally stock n/a motor - will not last long.

    You should also add an intercooler to your list; and piping. Custom stainless steel piping through a shop will likely set you back about $750 last i checked.

  7. #37
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    There are plenty of guys in the US that crank 12-15psi on stock internals with only a headgasket spacer, the stock rods are known to last up to 300hp. How long do they last at 1 bar? Well that depends on how u drive it
    Last edited by peedman; 30-01-2008 at 06:54 AM. Reason: typo my bad

  8. #38
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    As said; i'm not familiar with these motors.

    1 pound or 1 bar? 1 bar = ~14.7psi

    Sounds over-engineered if stock 2l rods can handle 300hp... If you were going for those figures, i wouldn't be trusting stock internals.

  9. #39
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    I've seen reflashed turbo 8v chips for 200 bucks online. The mk3 tdi manifold fits it as well, 2 grand for a backyard job running around 6-8psi, more like 2500 but anyways, the point is it can be done on the cheap. I doubt its the best way to go around it though... I'd contemplate doing it If I actually had any desire to keep my car. Its definately worth the minimal amount of risk involved...

    I'll just turbocharge my next car

    24v VR6 internals are rated at 450awhp, why, I have no idea... Head spacer should work well enough, reducing compression ratio to run 12-18 psi too!

    450hp bora... hmnnn
    Last edited by Golf Houso; 29-01-2008 at 10:36 PM.

  10. #40
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    Jul 2005
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    Melbourne, Williamstown
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    Quote Originally Posted by D3bb4 View Post
    It's not about the tune at all; it's about the load on the pistons/rings/ringlands. You pressurise the cylinders through use of boost, and not many stock turbo motors can handle 15psi boost for long, so i really don't think a stock n/a motor can. Tune has to do with if the motor detonates and dies through pinging. If you run alot of pressure, it's going to be your rings and/or ringlands that go prematurely. 4psi is regarded as safe boost for a stock n/a motor; anything else is technical/varies depending upon decompressing the motor and size of the turbo.

    As mentioned before; i'm not familiar with the specs of these motors, nor what they can handle, but 15psi through an internally stock n/a motor - will not last long.
    Valver is correct, and you are wrong, if it is tuned poorly it will ping and detonate causing weakness and premature fatigue in the ringland area! Ringlands will not likely fail on bulky/beefy stock vw pistons(unless poorly tuned).

    15psi is not a high amount of boost for a stock turbo petrol motor I would say it's roughly average.


    I have seen a stock 1.8 20vt destroyed buy a standard turbo and a poor tune.

    Also the size of the turbo has little to do with the longevity of the motor, simply because a larger turbo can deliver more boost does not mean it is set up to do so.

    As for over engineering yes thats "they are" true most things are, especially German machines, bridges, buildings, pressure vessels, planes, trains and automobiles, etc. They don't build motors to pop if you fit a performance air filter.

    I have read of an engine(through vortex) similar to the one in question here that was making 500bhp on stock internals. I am unaware of the longevity.
    Last edited by ausgolfer; 29-01-2008 at 11:35 PM.

    mk2 GTi 16v
    Corrado G60

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