Big Brake Kits

[noone]

Bit optimistic on the currency conversion.

Big brakes cost big coin IMO, but if your are tracking a vehicle, so can every little improvement.

[Joe7777]

Trying to locate a thread about brakes, so found this one and quite spot on what I am currently looking for

My rocco r is currently on stage 1 and approaching 6K on clock. I am looking to get some good pads (Hawk HPS for example), and stainless steel braided brake line (maybe Neuspeed), plus visually also more importantly heat dissipating a set of new grooved and drilled rotors (more visual appearance for my use

I guess this set up should be sufficient for daily commute and occasional track day even on stage 2+. Any advices or comments on this set up or any other better alternative you would think? Trying to save money for some other mods at the moment - Milltek full TBE.

[VWindahouse]

Trying to locate a thread about brakes, so found this one and quite spot on what I am currently looking for

My rocco r is currently on stage 1 and approaching 6K on clock. I am looking to get some good pads (Hawk HPS for example), and stainless steel braided brake line (maybe Neuspeed), plus visually also more importantly heat dissipating a set of new grooved and drilled rotors (more visual appearance for my use

I guess this set up should be sufficient for daily commute and occasional track day even on stage 2+. Any advices or comments on this set up or any other better alternative you would think? Trying to save money for some other mods at the moment - Milltek full TBE.

Spot on there, however talk to GSL (forum sponsor and brake experts) before you buy anything. They are really well priced and know there stuff.

For what you're looking for upgraded pads, lines, rotors and fluid is a very noticeable combo for improvement. However please never get slotted and drilled rotors. I have always and I mean always no matter what brand crack at the drilled sections over time. Especially after being exposed to track heat cycles. I have had slotted only rotors for years and never had any issues or warping.

[Joe7777]

Thanks heaps for the advice mate! I will check this out with GSL, again appreciate your valuable input. This helped a lot for my next upgrade decision.

Spot on there, however talk to GSL (forum sponsor and brake experts) before you buy anything. They are really well priced and know there stuff.

For what you're looking for upgraded pads, lines, rotors and fluid is a very noticeable combo for improvement. However please never get slotted and drilled rotors. I have always and I mean always no matter what brand crack at the drilled sections over time. Especially after being exposed to track heat cycles. I have had slotted only rotors for years and never had any issues or warping.

[MountainBikeMike]

Thanks heaps for the advice mate! I will check this out with GSL, again appreciate your valuable input. This helped a lot for my next upgrade decision.

Will do to. Thanks to the last few guys comments. My wallet thanks you for turning me off big brakes. However, I wonder whether I can upgrade from stock which I believe is 312mm, to 330mm? Seems to be a lot more than 18mm in caliper clearance in the stock wheels..

So I'm looking at maybe:
-DBA T2 Street series slotted rotors with the kangaroo paw vents.

DBA T2 Front Pair Brake Rotor Audi A3 Turbo Tiguan Octavia RS Golf GTI | eBay

-Braided lines, only research thus far is ebay, with $90-150 options for a set of 4 lines (these look only 0.5-1ft long in the package :S. Is that right?)

Skoda Octavia 1Z3 2 0 TDI VRS 2006 Braided Brake Lines BY HEL Performance | eBay

-Pads as mentioned above
-Fluid and installation

Does anyone have experience with the above two links, or similar, OR a recommendation for a Melbourne dealer? About to search GSL

[MountainBikeMike]

Just got a quote from GSL:

DBA T2 Rotors EACH: $165 front, $135 rear- Disc Brakes Australia | T2 slot - Disc Brakes Australia
Remsa brake pads PAIR: $115 front, $90 rear
Penrite race fluid 500ml: $15, we need roughly 500ml per end
$25 freight down to Melbourne

Totals were about $490 front, over $800 for the full set F+R

I was advised braided lines are just not effective unless raced, which for me is no, and that people think braided are so amazing because they change the oil at the same time and its the oil giving the much better feel...

So I think I'll go with those rotors. I'll start with the front and see how that goes, but probably stay with those. I'll only change the rear if I have to anyway later... However the pads I havn't heard of. GSL advised me they are some of the best and rated above 650 degrees. Does anyone have experience or reviews for these 'Remsa' pads?

Cheers!

[seangti]

So I think I'll go with those rotors. I'll start with the front and see how that goes, but probably stay with those. I'll only change the rear if I have to anyway later... However the pads I havn't heard of. GSL advised me they are some of the best and rated above 650 degrees. Does anyone have experience or reviews for these 'Remsa' pads?

Cheers!

I'm on my second set of remsa's, many of the polo guys are running them (perhaps cos that's the main place I frequent). They are a very good pad, and a very good price. They are a higher temp pad to OEM, so coming from a stock pad you may notice a lack of initial bite when you first touch the brakes of the morning, but that's a minimal sacrifice, and they hold up well under high temp applications. Regarding brake dust, from recollection that are marginally better than OEM, though others have had better results saying much less brake dust.

For me, both sets of pads have had extensive track use once bed in so I think I'm using them beyond their design tolerances, a corner a Qld raceway on back straight has me going from ~175kmh to 60kmh at the hairpin apex within 120m, so it's highly committed braking. Other tracks don't require the same level of retarding so the brakes are fine, e.g. lakeside. In saying that, they are fine for track days if not punching sustained highly committed laps, they'll with stand it, but brake feel over time deteriorates and wrecks your rotors. They haven't failed me and rotor wear is fine.

[nat225]

I'm on my second set of remsa's, many of the polo guys are running them (perhaps cos that's the main place I frequent). They are a very good pad, and a very good price. They are a higher temp pad to OEM, so coming from a stock pad you may notice a lack of initial bite when you first touch the brakes of the morning, but that's a minimal sacrifice, and they hold up well under high temp applications. Regarding brake dust, from recollection that are marginally better than OEM, though others have had better results saying much less brake dust.

For me, both sets of pads have had extensive track use once bed in so I think I'm using them beyond their design tolerances, a corner a Qld raceway on back straight has me going from ~175kmh to 60kmh at the hairpin apex within 120m, so it's highly committed braking. Other tracks don't require the same level of retarding so the brakes are fine, e.g. lakeside. In saying that, they are fine for track days if not punching sustained highly committed laps, they'll with stand it, but brake feel over time deteriorates and wrecks your rotors. They haven't failed me and rotor wear is fine.

+1

also, Jason Statham (Machine) in his white Golf R uses Remsa pads.

[MountainBikeMike]

I'm on my second set of remsa's, many of the polo guys are running them (perhaps cos that's the main place I frequent). They are a very good pad, and a very good price. They are a higher temp pad to OEM, so coming from a stock pad you may notice a lack of initial bite when you first touch the brakes of the morning, but that's a minimal sacrifice, and they hold up well under high temp applications. Regarding brake dust, from recollection that are marginally better than OEM, though others have had better results saying much less brake dust.

For me, both sets of pads have had extensive track use once bed in so I think I'm using them beyond their design tolerances, a corner a Qld raceway on back straight has me going from ~175kmh to 60kmh at the hairpin apex within 120m, so it's highly committed braking. Other tracks don't require the same level of retarding so the brakes are fine, e.g. lakeside. In saying that, they are fine for track days if not punching sustained highly committed laps, they'll with stand it, but brake feel over time deteriorates and wrecks your rotors. They haven't failed me and rotor wear is fine.

Awesome, sounds good enough for me. Cheers for the info.

I don't do track as I never have, but then again I've never had a car this quick If anything, I might track it once or twice a year. As said previously my main concern is stopping distance for emergencies, and reduced brake fade for mountain passes. Good to know it should be right for both. So your saying that the initial bite from cold is slightly less than OEM? Because this is more than half my driving.. well my trips to work are in traffic for about 25k. How many brakes from 60-0 generally get the system warmed?

[Joe7777]

Great choices mate. Lucas also uses Remsa pads, and you may be able to find a review at here.
Lucas' Golf R

He likes to try different set up and seem all come up very well. The remsa pads only come with 1 series, so no much choice whether it is street oriented or track oriented, but GSL do strongly recommend it given it is good value for money too. Other pads like EBC and Ferodo are way too expensive for what they are according to them, as they are more racing driven I suppose. But I am still quite interested to see how Ferodo will work in practice seems DBA rotors recommend them. DS2500 perhaps is too over kill for daily driving? I also looked at some of the Hawk pads (eg. HPS or ceramic). Remsa pads have high carbon contents which is pretty good too. This is all I really know about the brake pads as a newbie