Here is Lucas DIY thread for Remsa pads in case you found useful. (Sorry Lucas to use your thread:rolleyes:)
DIY - changing/upgrading the brake pads on Golf R
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Here is Lucas DIY thread for Remsa pads in case you found useful. (Sorry Lucas to use your thread:rolleyes:)
DIY - changing/upgrading the brake pads on Golf R
I run Ferodo DS2500 on my car, they are a favorite choice for me, they are more but not overly expensive
They are perfectly fine on street and great on the track - your rotors will wear somewhat quicker than normal
Another very cost effective option is QFM pads - GSL sell them
HPX series for high performance or A1RM for frequent/hard track work
These work great and are one of the cheapest performance pad you can get
Remsa are a good option for sure
Don't get hung up or caught out looking for a high performance pad that does not make much dust and does not wear the rotors heavily - it's a total myth - more braking performance from the same rotor means more brake dust and more rotor wear, it's a simple as that
(Using low friction pads with bigger calipers may be the exception but it won't have that initial bite and not many of use would spend money for that configuration)
I got a set of street ceramic pads that were meant to be low dust and ok for occasional track usage
They were the opposite on both counts - very high dust and only handled 3 laps on the track
Pads that need warming up will normally be fine by the time your water temperature reaches normal
Just driving along your rotors will be like 36~40 degrees
I would not buy high end DBA rotors - they are well known to crack
Don't get drilled rotors - cracks start at the drilling holes - get plain or slotted rotors
Thanks Martin, appreciate the info, it is certainly very helpful to know your user experiences! I am looking to get a DBA rotors T3 4000 series slotted for the front, and T2 street series slotted for the rear to match up the slotted pattern, which looks to be an OK option. But just need to source some good pads to go with them. I just want to make sure the comfort and noise is a the bearable level for daily drive, since I won't track it often...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin
So the T2 rotors are well priced from memory
The T3/4000 are double the cost of stock rotors but still not expensive in outright terms
The DS2500 pad is better for demanding drivers who want a lot of bite and feel and are less worried about rotor life
They are normally completely silent
After a lot of round town work you may get a little sqealing which can be cleared via an enthusiastic braking exercise
The noise problem may get worse as the rotors become groved - hence higher maintenance (skimming the rotors)
It's more common for the metalic racing pads to make noise
You should be pretty safe with all the other options
Bendix ultimate would be another good choice - good performance and no noise
At the end of the day you'll have to try a set and see how it goes,
very easy to change them out if you don't like them
Yup, as said, my car is tracked every month so pad bite when cold is average so others may have a more positive opinion. By average, i wouldn't punch it in to the first corner, but 2-3 applications and it's fine. I'd expect an OEM pad would be sufficient for some mountain passes, so these may not sit well for your daily needs. Everything is a compromise. I had tracked my car from factory spec, pads and all which is why I'd think an OEM pad should suffice, unless the quality of components on skoda is markedly less. I've ran formula feroda DS2500 and 2000's, great pads but exxy. 2000's are similar to these remsa's IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainBikeMike
I run the A1RMs on road between track days and they work alright on the road even from cold, although I don't drive aggressively in traffic. The big thing is to bed them in properly else they squeal mightily.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin
According to Greg at GSL Rallysport, the HPX pads are on par with the Remsa ones but priced a bit higher which is why he recommends the Remsa pads for normal, aggressive road use.
The DBA slotted rotors make a funny whirring sound when you brake hard.
All metalic pads need to be bed in - it's essential
When swapping from ceramic to metalic or back it's best to have the discs machined
This gives a good/flat surface for bedding in but also removes the previous pad material
In another thread, someone linked to an article which used hard braking with cold brakes (so no pad material gets deposited on to the rotor) with pads with a high metal content to 'machine' off existing pad material when swapping pad types.
It makes a lot of sense when you think about it.