AGU engines will adapt the TB if you turn them on but don't start it.
Gavin
Please correct me if I get this wrong:
The throttle body controls the incoming air flow to the engine. With our car being drive by wire, the throttle body can benefit from being cleaned after carbon buildup and can / should be realigned (vag-com function) after its cleaned, the battery is disconnected or major mods are done.
There is a misconception that you can realign the throttle body by turning the ignition on, but not starting the car. This came about as the car appears to make the same noises (throttle body opens and closes), but does not recalibrate.
Worth a try, seems to be more relevant to older Mk4 GTI's and A3/A4 Audi's (from my reading).
AGU engines will adapt the TB if you turn them on but don't start it.
Gavin
Sorry mate but it won't
Read this thread and watch the video from Daemon on VWVortex with info from Uwe at Vagcom it explains exactly what happens and how doing the door open ignition on for 30 secs hop on one foot dance DOES NOT realign the throttle body, you need either Vagcom or an APR upgrade with the throttle body realignment option or a similar diagnostic tool.
Cheers Al
Daemon42 from this thread
VWvortex Forums: Throttle Body Alignment (TBA)
If a picture's worth a thousand words, then what's a video worth?
Ignition on + 30 seconds
http://thud.us/videos/car-av/TB-ign-on-divx.avi
Actual VAG-COM initiated throttle body alignment + 30 seconds
http://thud.us/videos/car-av/TB-align-divx.avi
And looking at the VAG-COM screen while doing the above
http://thud.us/videos/car-av/T...x.avi
Notice how fast the alignment is completed. (far right value
indicates when alignment is occuring, and when it's done).
When you first turn the key, the throttle goes to it's "on" mode
and closes waiting for the engine to start. That's the whine.
It whines *all* the time that the car is running. If you don't touch
the throttle for 30 seconds while the engine is not running,
it gives up and goes back to sleep *clunk*. The whine
and the clunk are not a throttle body alignment. If you get
back in the car and touch the gas pedal, it will start whining
again.
And just because I was under there with a video camera. Here's a video
clip showing how fast the throttle moves in response to the gas pedal.
http://thud.us/videos/car-av/T...x.avi
When I say "linear" in the video I mean that I'm moving the gas pedal
down at a constant linear rate. Notice that the throttle itself moves
non-linearly. It's slow at first, and very fast when nearly full open.
Also notice that it can go from full closed to full open in 1/10th of a
second.
As for the flapper valve. Here's how it operates normally when the
vaccum resevoir is depleted. (car's been sitting for a while)
http://thud.us/videos/car-av/f...x.avi
Activator moves slowly as the pump evacuates the resevoir and
only after the engine is started. (it does have it's own vacuum
pump. It just doesn't run it until the engine is running)
Here's how it operates when there's still some vacuum in
the resevoir when the car is started
http://thud.us/videos/car-av/f...x.avi
Flapper closes the moment you turn the key.
And just for giggles, here's what happens if you pull
the vacuum line off.
http://thud.us/videos/car-av/flapper...-leak-divx.avi
This'll run the vacuum pump forever (until it burns out).
[edit]Turns out, there is no vacuum pump. It draws vacuum from the EVAP
system somewhere, which is ultimately manifold vacuum. If your flapper
hose is off or leaking, it's causing a manifold vacuum leak.
ian
Last edited by quozl; 15-04-2010 at 03:24 AM.
Yeah, thats what I saw. Apparently the Vag-com guys are across this.
So with the ongoing adaptation, am I likely to experience this with all tunes? If I change to a tune that cant be turned on / off like the APR is, can you reset them in the same way?
I don't really understand why my car looses power over time, I sure don't baby it.
Totally agree here to align the throttle body you must do it with adaption on all the models, it wont be right to let it just set itself. Ive done a AEE polo today that has old technology like AGU and it wouldt behave till physically alignedwith the software, i wouldnt do it any other way anyway having said that. back to the original issue, you say you are losing power over time, im with Guy here how are you measuring your power? Are you watching a boost gauge or are you feeling its just getting down on power??? you ae on stage 1 right??? have you actually seen it getting down on power or is it just feel, gauges and requested and actual dont lie really , feel will. you might be itching to go to the next level mate. Im a firm believer on gauges, and of course what he ecu is requesting an the actual. Do a log on 115 for requested and actual, do 114 and you will see the duty cycle of N75 and like Guy says 030,031,032 to check your fuel trim.
Keen to hear more
Jmac
Alba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
Thanks mate.
Do the fuel trims need to be logged with WOT runs or is there more of a stationary value?
The difference was the butt-dyno test, but it wasn't so much peak power, but the way the power came on. It was VERY clear that the car was pulling harder.
I wish I had logged it, will have to do it again in a few kms.
Are all tunes likely to be affected in the same way by the adaptation process? Is there likely to be any difference in the way the adaptation changes the car over time with the different tunes?
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