Advice - How to remove crank nut?

[Peter Jones]

This sucker is done up real tight.

I've thrown a heap of leverage at it but it's not budging.

I'm locking the crank with a 1.5m bar bolted to the timing belt pulley. I keep tearing the bolt holes out of this bar.

I'm also close to bending my breaker bar.

I'm going to see if I can find a bit of plate and attach to all 4 bolts.

Might try to heat it up a bit too.

Pete

[h100vw]

Why do you need to remove it?

Heat might work but they are in there funking tight. I have never removed one myself in nearly 20 years of VW ownership. Only when they have undone themselves on G60s and 16Vs.

Certainly when you replace it, I can recommend that you use the hex bolt and washer from a MK1 DX engine. The stretch bolts just don't seem to cut it as replacements.

Gavin

[Peter Jones]

Need to replace the oil seal behind it, it's leaking.

Just made up a new lever, hopefully this one will hold.

Pete

[Peter Jones]

Got it!

Lots of leverage, swearing and heat and it finally let go.

Now I bet the pulley will be stuck too!

Pete

[h100vw]

Good effort mate. Remember the hex bolt can be reused the 12 points cannot.

Gavin

[Peter Jones]

Yep, it's the hex bolt, so all is well.

The pulley came off easily,.

I'll pop up some photos later.

Pete

[Preen59]

Here's i tip- If you have the room to move, get a brass drift (a piece of brass bar long enough to hang on to) or something similar and give it a couple of serious really good hard whacks (and i mean HARD) with a big hammer on the head of the bolt. This jars the bolt and can help to break the lock.

That, combined with heat generally never fails. Usually, if i find a bolt is too tight, the first thing i do is give it a good whack with a large hammer to help break the tension. It's a good idea to use a copper or brass (or even aluminium or mild steel if you don't have that handy) punch when you do it to avoid damaging the head of the bolt.

So, in the order i usually take if it's really tight:
1. Penetrant (best stuff EVER is ZEP 400)
2. More leverage
3. Give it a few good whacks (maybe try a rattle gun too, if you've got one)
4. Heat it up and give it a few more whacks.

And that generally never fails.

[Oneofthegreats]

If the bolt was extremely tight & was over powering even the special crank holding tool's -

I used to fit the largest breaker bar to the socket & with the breaker bar facing the ground, crank the engine quickly which would snap the breaker bar against the ground shocking the bolt & loosening it.

It's very suprising how much torque there is to be had in a starter motor!

It's alittle bit rough & ready but work's effectively without damaging anything.

[Preen59]

If the bolt was extremely tight & was over powering even the special crank holding tool's -

I used to fit the largest breaker bar to the socket & with the breaker bar facing the ground, crank the engine quickly which would snap the breaker bar against the ground shocking the bolt & loosening it.

It's very suprising how much torque there is to be had in a starter motor!

It's alittle bit rough & ready but work's effectively without damaging anything.

Fairly common practice in North South engines actually. put the breaker bar against the chassis and fire the starter. Nothing rough about it.. Just using your nut..

[Jmac]

Yeah all good till your breaker bar goes through your Radiatior , then where does using your nut go , look out your stripy coat(butcher wears them).
Jmac