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Thread: Advice - How to remove crank nut?

  1. #11

    Quote Originally Posted by Jmac View Post
    Yeah all good till your breaker bar goes through your Radiatior , then where does using your nut go , look out your stripy coat(butcher wears them).
    Jmac
    Uhhhh. I don't get it.

    The breaker bar hit's against the ground. It's it's only to crack the bolt. You don't start & run the engine.

    The radiator's nowhere near it.

    I'll can take picture's if you like. Can be alittle hard to explain & to visualize

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by golfworx View Post
    If the bolt was extremely tight & was over powering even the special crank holding tool's -

    I used to fit the largest breaker bar to the socket & with the breaker bar facing the ground, crank the engine quickly which would snap the breaker bar against the ground shocking the bolt & loosening it.

    It's very suprising how much torque there is to be had in a starter motor!

    It's alittle bit rough & ready but work's effectively without damaging anything.
    Not sure I'm ready to try this on my own car just yet

    Those starter motors do have a lot of torque though, a lot of people don't realise you can drive the car in first gear on the starter motor. It's not recommended of course but it can get you off the train lines when your car chooses to die.

    I've seen a couple of electric go karts using a starter motor to drive one wheel.

    Pete

  3. #13
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    Golfworx ive done this heaps of times , no need to show me piccies mate, only i have seen some disasters with this method. The reason i mention is that not everyone on hear is technical and you put that suggestion and they put the bar the wrong way round then YELP. So to conclude i am in no way knocking your idea , used it heaps myself , but doin this for over 15yrs.
    North, South engine had a mention and the rad is dircectly in front of that - Audi 80 and the likes.
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  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Jmac View Post
    Golfworx ive done this heaps of times , no need to show me piccies mate, only i have seen some disasters with this method. The reason i mention is that not everyone on hear is technical and you put that suggestion and they put the bar the wrong way round then YELP. So to conclude i am in no way knocking your idea , used it heaps myself , but doin this for over 15yrs.
    North, South engine had a mention and the rad is dircectly in front of that - Audi 80 and the likes.
    Yep, that's cool. Nothing wrong with putting on the butcher's coat every now & then.

    Thought I'd post up some pic's for the people anyway.

    Bar attatched.



    Disconnect ignition coil HT lead from the ignition coil

    A quick crank of the ignition, a bit of banging noise from the front &



    Bingo. Undone bolt.

  5. #15
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    Jan 2006
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    The only problem with doing it that way is you can snap off the keyway on the crank sprocket.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Grunmk1 View Post
    The only problem with doing it that way is you can snap off the keyway on the crank sprocket.
    The keyway for the crankshaft pulley has nothing to do with it.

    It's straight onto the crank bolt & driven by the starter.

  7. #17
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    Yeah dude, i really don't see how that could happen. Well, it wouldn't happen. There's no way it can..

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Maryborough Vic
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    Talking

    use the bracker bar on the ground lots
    always doing 90 model com's ( cause there balancers are crap )
    the key is to flick key so even if it does fire you've already turn it off
    and never put the bar where it hit anything breakable because the bar
    can bounce back if its realy tight

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    I haven't actually seen it happen but I have seen crank sprockets that have had the keyway broken off. I think this probably happens if you run the motor with a loose crank bolt and it hammers at the keyway.

    When I had a crank bolt that was ridiculously tight and the motor was out I was going to lock up the other side of the crank and just breaker bar off the nut. I was advised against that by a mechanic who said it could damage the keyway. I haven't seen that happen but maybe it puts undue stress on the keyway as well if the bolt is really seized against the sprocket it will be yanking on the sprocket and its keyway when it finally cracks and turns. Anyway I just made up a tool just like Pete did. Its the safest way to crack that bolt.

  10. #20
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    That reminds me I meant to post the pic of that tool in this thread as well as the projects thread.

    Even managed to put a bit of a bend in this one. I might weld a solid bar into the angle for next time. This angle is only 3mm - thicker would be better.


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