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Inlets are 42 mm and 50 mm..have both left and right entry, the 50 mm scirocco ones are the hardest and most expensive to find...
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...v50mminlet.jpg
42 mm ones are fairly easy to find in the states...
the KR I have here from a corrado has the right hand entry
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...go/16vrear.jpg
again , if you want revs, go 50 mm, or torque...chose a 42 mm...
Black Betty is right. And for the record the mk3 and seat ABF motors use a 50mm manifold but it's not exactly the same as the KR one as they used a single throttle as apossed to the twin progressive on the mk2, corrado etc..
Fine mk1 the lightweight pulleys will give you a huge zero horse power increase. When you lighten your flywheel or pulleys it will make your engine rev up quicker(more responsive) when in nuetral. This is the same as fitting lightweight wheels to your car(same as lightening any part of the drivetrain). So on the dyno I'd expect to see a 1 hp difference or less as they only add a tiny bit to the parasitic power losses. Also as the pulleys are a fraction of the weight of the flywheel don't expect to see many gains, other than the etreme cool factor of having shiny cool pulleys.
Personally if I was building an all out motor I'd get a light flywheel and balance all the other parts as it's easier and cheaper to do that then lightening the pulleys for the same effect.
oh well it too late now, i have it in my pretty little hands now, so ill be chucking it on anyway for the cool factor at the least,,,, just hope the freeking thing doesnt break....gulp! then u blokes will be laughing at me non stop, and ill keep the 42mm intake as im more keen to spend the bucks on my head and a full cage plus a few little secrets i have install for the little MK1 and dont ask cause there not finished yet.
He he nice one. Gotta have a few secrets up your sleve, and we can waste our time guessing. My guess is Nitrous oxide.
nah cant afford nos id be a bottle a week user to......but plans for a charger built by some bloke in the usa totally custom which claims to be defening when on boost and sounds like a jumbo jet in take off....cool hey but that is 5Gs with engine internals but without plumbing and stuff and min 300bhp
pray for a win on the horses!!
and is there Any 16v that dont leek oil, if yes do u know the weak spots/seals wher oil is most likely to come from, not sump gasket!, i was told by a well know vw mechanic! that its naturall for a 16v to leak oil, which is crap on a stick or trying to pass off a dodgy motor, ,ethier or..... do all 16v leak?
New gaskets all round torque everything to spec. It wont leak.
did that loon but i have found it, ,its the seal in the box my box is shat apon hard core due to neglect, so its leaking gear box oil not engine oil so my problem has taken another left turn, hopfully will get my hands on a seal/gasket kit for the box and go from there... yet again. the engine comes out.......
Where is the box leaking oil.It might be the flange seals and can be done insitu.
ok im at the stage of putting my head back on but after mesuring the distance that the intake valves stick out when fully open is 8mm off the line of the skimed head. but the distance from the piston notch to the top of the head gasket line where the head will be measures only about 5.5-6 mm. is this normal and will it cause the valves to hit the pistons or will the valves be closing by the time the piston reaches the top?
any help or further knowledge would be suuuper
Don't forget that the inlet valves will be closing or closed as the pistons are rising. You should get away with a skim pretty easily.
I say build it up and time it right them rotate it by hand.
Gavin