MkVII Brakes (Pads, Rotors and Calipers) - Discussion and Questions

[R_LINE]

May I ask...why the upgrade? Do you track the car? I don't see a point unless it's been raced or something.

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[Golf7Tdi]

Moderator please move if i have posted in wrong secion, couldnt find anywhere else.

Hey guys, i have a MK7 2.0 TDI.
A family friend has borrowed my car while i was overseas and has ruined the brake rotors and pads.
Im going to replace them myself, any advice for changing them?

Also, both pads are worn out however my front right rotor has been worn to be less than a fingernail thick ( i know its really bad ) while my front left rotor seems normal with no wear or scratches on it at all.
Has anybody had this issue or is there anyone that knows how i can fix this?

From my standpoint it seems like for some reason only the front right one is working lol
I braveky drove it home yesterday and it was only screeching on the right side with no noise coming from the left...

Last one, when i search for replacement rotors, there is 2 options for my car, 312mm and 288mm. Which is better suited?

Many thanks in advance!

[Umai Naa!!]

You need to replace the rotors as a pair.

You're also better off ordering parts from a supplier that uses your VIN to verify that they're the correct parts. Most leading European suppliers work this way.

[agentthumb]

I'm confused. One of your front rotor is worn down to less than a fingernail thick? Did you mean pad?

If it's the rotor, you have bigger issues. Their spec for replacement is usually 2mm of wear measured, which leaves plenty of material.

Check if your pads need replacing too. Do everything as a pair.

You will need a piston pusher to put the new pads in. You will also need VCDS to change the back pads as you will need to put them into maintenance mode.

Have a syringe ready to suck some brake fluid out of the master cylinder as you push the pistons back. Usually you are ok, but some mechanics top up the fluid during services as the pads are worn.

This creates a mess when you push the pistons back and all the fluid overflows the tank. Brake fluids are highly corrosive so you don't want that

The rotor size should be in your owners manual. Try to get rotors for European cars if you go aftermarket and get the best (non-performance) pads you can afford.

After all, the only things that will prevent a crash are your 4 tyres and brakes


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[Golf7Tdi]

I will replace them as a pair.
When i called up european suppliers and gave them my vin number they gave me the above optiona for rotors. Which is why im bot sure whuch ones are correct...

[agentthumb]

Also in addition to above, get some pad lubes for the rub points between the pads and the calliper. And some brake lubes are handy to lube up those guide pins for the calliper.

Oh, latex gloves. Lots of latex gloves. It's a messy job, and brake dust is carcinogenic, so avoid contact with skin and breathing it in.


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[Golf7Tdi]

I'm confused. One of your front rotor is worn down to less than a fingernail thick? Did you mean pad?

If it's the rotor, you have bigger issues. Their spec for replacement is usually 2mm of wear measured, which leaves plenty of material.

Check if your pads need replacing too. Do everything as a pair.

You will need a piston pusher to put the new pads in. You will also need VCDS to change the back pads as you will need to put them into maintenance mode.

Have a syringe ready to suck some brake fluid out of the master cylinder as you push the pistons back. Usually you are ok, but some mechanics top up the fluid during services as the pads are worn.

This creates a mess when you push the pistons back and all the fluid overflows the tank. Brake fluids are highly corrosive so you don't want that

The rotor size should be in your owners manual. Try to get rotors for European cars if you go aftermarket and get the best (non-performance) pads you can afford.

After all, the only things that will prevent a crash are your 4 tyres and brakes


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How necessary is it to put the back brakes into maintenace mode while changing the front ones. Cant i just straight forward swap and change the front rotors without a computer?

No the rotor on the right has gone down to less than a fingernail thick because its been driven with metal to metal... but the one on the left looks pretty decent, no scratches on it or anything which is what has baffeled me...

Both of the pads are compleletly worn

[agentthumb]

How necessary is it to put the back brakes into maintenace mode while changing the front ones. Cant i just straight forward swap and change the front rotors without a computer?

No the rotor on the right has gone down to less than a fingernail thick because its been driven with metal to metal... but the one on the left looks pretty decent, no scratches on it or anything which is what has baffeled me...

Both of the pads are compleletly worn

You don't need to touch the back if you are just doing the fronts. So no computer required.

You will still need the piston pusher to fit the new pads.

So your mate kept driving it with the horrendous metal on metal contact noise? I hope you are not friends anymore


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[Golf7Tdi]

I'm confused. One of your front rotor is worn down to less than a fingernail thick? Did you mean pad?

If it's the rotor, you have bigger issues. Their spec for replacement is usually 2mm of wear measured, which leaves plenty of material.

Check if your pads need replacing too. Do everything as a pair.

You will need a piston pusher to put the new pads in. You will also need VCDS to change the back pads as you will need to put them into maintenance mode.

Have a syringe ready to suck some brake fluid out of the master cylinder as you push the pistons back. Usually you are ok, but some mechanics top up the fluid during services as the pads are worn.

This creates a mess when you push the pistons back and all the fluid overflows the tank. Brake fluids are highly corrosive so you don't want that

The rotor size should be in your owners manual. Try to get rotors for European cars if you go aftermarket and get the best (non-performance) pads you can afford.

After all, the only things that will prevent a crash are your 4 tyres and brakes


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You don't need to touch the back if you are just doing the fronts. So no computer required.

You will still need the piston pusher to fit the new pads.

So your mate kept driving it with the horrendous metal on metal contact noise? I hope you are not friends anymore


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I cant use a clamp of some sort? Instead of a proper piston pusher?

Yeah i didnt know ehat to say i just laughed lol

But i cant wrap my head around why the left rotor still looks brand new and the one on the right is worn to the limit lol

[agentthumb]

I cant use a clamp of some sort? Instead of a proper piston pusher?

Yeah i didnt know ehat to say i just laughed lol

But i cant wrap my head around why the left rotor still looks brand new and the one on the right is worn to the limit lol

If you have a C clamp big enough, you can make it work

It's probably as you said, the rotors were probably worn equally until one of the pad wore out first. Once it's metal on metal, it doesn't take long!


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