Dubbers, check this out ...
Hotter Volkswagen performance models incoming | GoAuto
It seems VW Oz have won a small battle for us. We're no longer considered a suitable market for which to provide knackered engines. Obviously not a huge help for those of us already in possession of aforementioned desexed specimens, but anyone know what might be a good place to start to unofficially reclaim that we've been deprived? That is, 15Kw.
I know I just can't go to my local dealer for an EU reflash, so who might be able to replicate in our cars what ze motherland enjoys in theirs ?
Last edited by SteveMc; 25-07-2019 at 11:36 AM.
2017 - Golf R 7.5 - Blue - DSG - Proper Roof - DAP - Res' delete - Dynaudio delete
2008 - Mazda 2 - (Maybe my first child scared me a bit) -1998 - Wrx (modded up to but not including forged pistons)
1988 - Corolla TwinCam - (couldn't insure a 323 Turbo)
1967 - Tonka Tip Truck - Red with 2 inch plastic rims and a massive sand scoop.
JB4 is the way to go it can be removed if you're concerned about warranty gives you up to 265kW 475Nm with a stock engine best to get the bluetooth management option so you can change maps log and monitor your engine from your mobile. I love the fact that I can run around stock Map 0 when I don't need the extra performance it's not like the R is lacking in stock form but choose a performance Map it will put an even bigger smile on your face.
check out the vwvortex Forum
VWVortex.com - Burger Motorsport JB4 Information thread for R and S3
2017 MY18 Golf R Wolfsburg | Oryx White | DSG / 2021 MY21 T-Cross Style | S+V Package | Limestone Grey
I have never had an oil temperature gauge before so I turned it on out of interest. [On the infotainment screen press Menu/Vehicle/ Selection (in the lower LH corner) / Sport]. I bet you would never guess those steps! If necessary press an arrow to show the instruments instead of the Lap Time display or, If necessary, swipe an instrument up (or down) to show the Oil Temp .
When I went for a drive it took ages to register a temperature, but eventually it got up to show 100 degrees C. At that temp. It dawned on me that is the boiling point of water (at normal atmospheric pressure). Therefore I thought that if I keep the oil above that (since the oil pressure will be raising the boiling point ….. correct me if I’m wrong) the water in the oil, which forms normally from condensation, will boil off. That’s a good thing as the water rots the engine metal. Also, measuring your dipstick oil level will show actual oil and not oil+water. If you are anal you could measure your oil before and after driving oil at 100 degrees plus and get an idea about how cruel you are being to oil with short cold trips.
I am red hot on water in the oil because 50 years ago when I was more ignorant I wore out a brand new car engine in 2 years because (despite oil changes by the book) I drove 300 metres from cold every morning and the car sat there all day. Then 300 metres (not MILES or KM) back home where it sat overnight. I was always puzzled by stuff like mayonnaise inside the oil-filler cap doh!
cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.
notaGolfR were you forced to drive the car 300 meters through disability?
Walking 300 meters would not warm me up let alone your car?
Nice car your Golf R Mk 7.5, MY19 (Built Aug 201DSG white
Cheers Al
cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.
The above turned out to be a productive and educational post. I posted it on several forums.
Here’s all the back and forth posts in one place
Use the right hand steering wheel buttons to scroll left/right till you get to ‘driving data’ (iirc) and then scroll up/ down till you get oil temp. That way it can be permanently displayed in the DIS.
The oil temperature gauge is pretty much my default gauge on the DIS. I’m very conscious of getting my car up to at least mid 80s or low 90s before giving it some beans as I’m sure the oil doesn’t give its best lubricating properties under circulation until this temperature. Same after a run - I always do a low speed through town just before I get home to let everything settle down, especially the turbo. I’ve never had any engine issues with any car using these methods.
Makes me chuckle when owners who have modded their oil coolers or who use different oils boast their oil temp no longer gets above 95 - 100 degrees. For some reason all they think about is lowering engine temps to help with intake temps etc.
However all they are doing is causing problems with moisture in the engine, all for the sake of 1 bhp. Oil needs to operate are it’s correct temperature and needs to be higher than 100 degrees so any water evaporates. Under 100 and any moisture in the engine will not evaporate.
Oil temp is in the DIS, under driving data.
Great thanks. Lateral thinking was required. Driving Data it is. I've just set that View to Oil Temp. instead of my usual Navigation view. By scrolling down I can see all sorts of stuff by scrolling.
Agreed although with the thin oil used as standard I would have thought it lubricates well almost from start up. Having said that, my Owner manual says to wait until the oil temp gets up but I'm finding on a 12 degree C day it takes 15 minutes around town to get to 80 degr. C and 20 mins to 100 then stays there.
cars (chronological) Morris850, Morris Mini DeLuxe, Cooper S, Mazda 1500SS, hard times so some old Holden, old Falcon Ute, better times so second hand Lotus Elan +2 (6 weeks, hopelessly unreliable) Chrysler Valiant Charger 770, second hand Datsun 260Z + 2 auto, Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, Nissan 200SX turbo auto for 20 years(wonderful car burning ZERO oil after 200,000km & no problems when sold.. should have kept it), Toyota GTS 86 auto, now Golf R Mk 7.5 DSG built Aug2018, white.
I too enabled the oil temp display and wait for it to warm up properly before any WOT action.
Ben
Current: ‘19 VW Golf R
Past: ‘05 RS 225 Cup
Ben
2015 Polo GTI & 2019 Golf R
I might also mention that the oil temp display on the infotainment screen gauges has some foibles (on my and other Rs):
Until the temp gets above 55C it just shows --
Even after it gets above 55C it sometimes continues to display --
(i have to switch to another display and switch it back to get the actual oil temp)
Last edited by gregozedobe; 11-08-2019 at 12:09 PM.
2017 MY18 Golf R 7.5 Wolfsburg wagon (boring white) delivered 21 Sep 2017, 2008 Octavia vRS wagon 2.0 TFSI 6M (bright yellow), 2006 T5 Transporter van 2.5 TDI 6M (gone but not forgotten).
The best way to warm up a modern car that is using Synthetic oil is to just drive it. Not hard, just drive it. Idling an engine to warm it up is not the proper way for modern cars. In the Australian climate the difference in lubricating proprieties of oil between cold and hot is insignificant. The operating temp of the engine is the most important, thus we always measure the water. Need to get it to correct temperature ASAP.
Chris
The Car: MY20 Black Golf R Final Edition, 5 Door, Driver assistance package, Sun Roof.
Bookmarks