Mk7 Golf R Discussion Thread

[RMBB]

I don't understand why it is even necessary to detune cars that are more sophisticated than ever and surely able to adjust themselves with the army of sensors already in the car.

Sure our summers get hot regardless of where you're from in Australia, but they aren't too different from Spain and southern Europe. It is as if they have detuned us with the assumption we all live in Darwin.

I want my bloody 20Kw of which should be available stock. As a benefit to dealers and VAG AUS I reckon it's just a way to make the cars less likely to have issues within the 3 year warranty window.


On a side note, if one was to get the APR tune, would the tune include the missing (detuned) stock 20Kw plus the additional APR gains? If so, I bet the car would feel like a weapon of mass speed in comparison.

[Dutch77]

Yes you will end up with the same result post tune whether you had the 206 or 221 engine.

It's much like the Tiguan guys who can buy the cheaper 132 over 155 'engine', and end up in the same position post stage 1.

I can only assume they have to factor in a country's worst case scenarios on the basis the car could end up there permanently, but agree that other parts of the world would face equal conditions without the de-tune. Possibly may relate to our fuel and allowing them to still maintain it can be run on 95.. although given the purchase price and enthusiast buyer I cannot see an issue with just leaving 98 as minimum given most would run on that full time anyway.

[OilBurna]

this could be fun esp with the 2.5 5 cyl.

Volkswagen hints at Golf R 400 production car

[charro]

I had my apr tune installed by harding performance who are the aus agent. They dyno all cars pre tuning and every one of the R' s they have dyno'd have been 221kw. They think detune is smoke and mirrors.

[Mattlock]

Yeah, VW often understate their numbers regardless. Also, I reckon my R feels faster than the numbers suggest (having driven plenty of fast cars).


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[bobcrusader]

I had my apr tune installed by harding performance who are the aus agent. They dyno all cars pre tuning and every one of the R' s they have dyno'd have been 221kw. They think detune is smoke and mirrors.

"Were" the Aus agent.

How did they derive the engine output? What the engine makes is different to what is measured at the wheels, with the difference due to drivetrain loss. Drivetrain loss is difficult to measure, but you would normally start with the manufacturers stated output and compare to the measured output at the wheels. At a recent dyno day, a Stock Golf 7 R made 173Kw at the wheels. Assuming 206 at the engine, so looking at about 16% drivetrain loss, which pretty closely matches the "15%" rule. AWDs do have a higher rate of loss, but I believe the dynos test the Golf R in FWD mode only (no loss of traction, so no need to send power to the rear), so 15-16% is expected. 173 to 221 is nearly 22% loss.

[mrmomoz]

DSG to a Manual also differ on the dyno readings.

[danielb_c]

I've given the R a few goes at 0-100kph, which have all been great fun. Then I read that boost is changed per gear. Since 0-100 isn't going to be using much past 3rd, I figured I'd find a safe place to get up a bit further.
I did, and holy frijoles! Just when you think it's going to peter out, 4th kicks in, then 5th... With a VERY noticeable difference in boost.
So I'm wondering, given the unlikelihood of ever going much over 100 on Australian roads, why would the JB1, APR flash, etc, continue with this methodology, rather than focusing the increase in boost in 2nd and 3rd instead? For obvious reasons you wouldn't want to too much in 1st (traction, stress for transmission, greater lag, etc), but I'm assuming many of these reasons shouldn't apply to 2nd and 3rd?

[random101]

Why aren't there more Golf R build threads

[prodigy_]

Wandered into my local dealership today after a service to get an idea of repayments on a 2016 Golf R (DSG) due to the new 2.8% comparison rate and it turned out to be quite manageable (retail pricing as well as I was just doing some ground work).
Have a few questions, as retail is just shy of 64k what are the chances of getting a fully optioned R for less than 60k? If I can save some money anywhere on this it will help make repayments even more manageable. My current finance ends in 2019, if I switch to the R, it will be an extra year on top of that. Difference between repayments a fortnight will be around $200 most likely, depending on how much of a deposit I can put down and whether I opt for a balloon.
Any haggling tips apart from the visiting of multiple dealerships to slowly chip away at the price?
I work for an insurance company that deals directly with Volkswagen so I'm going to look into corporate pricing as well.


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