Mk7 Golf R Discussion Thread

[Jimi]

what do you mean by this?

Just another way of varying the revs and load on the engine I suppose

[OilBurna]

Heard a nice silver one has had a full detail in Qld with Opti Coat


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[anduril]

what do you mean by this?

Put the engine on load (going on inclines or declines at low gear) and get the revs up.

[lawsy82]

What is everyone doing in regards to mats? What are the best options?

[Paul_R]

What I've been told by the service manager before I drove the car out of the dealership:

- Make sure you use the full rev range, the car has already been 'run-in' at the factory
- Don't let the sit in idle for too long (over 15 minutes)
- Don't sit on the same speed and rev level for too long (ie: cruise control on highway)
- Make sure the car is warmed up before you drive/push it
- Take the car on inclines/declines and down shift and let the car roll down

I guess different people will have different opinions on how the cars should be driven but all the above sounds reasonable to me.

This all sounds spot on to me.

The last point is about engine braking. You've seen those signs for truckies coming into towns about not using compression braking? They don't use their brakes unless they have to. Drop her down a gear or two and let the engine do it for you. It helps put pressure on the rings and seal them better so you use less oil.

It's all about pushing the rings into the bore. You only do this by accelerating flat out or engine braking. Accelerating in high gears is good and helps keep your licence.

If you have a car that uses a fair bit of oil think back to how you drove for the first 1000km. If it was at a steady speed with no hard acceleration and no revs above 4000rpm that might be why.
I drove mine as per andurils service manager and it's used 500mls in 25,000kms.

[choC]

Thanks for that, great info and answered my question perfectly

[samps]

I drove mine as per andurils service manager and it's used 500mls in 25,000kms.

I totally agree about not babying your engine during run-in, but how did you determine that it used 500mL? On the dipstick that's the difference between measuring when the oil is hot and when it's cold. Or did you dump the oil and compare the volume to how much you originally put in?

[Paul_R]

I totally agree about not babying your engine during run-in, but how did you determine that it used 500mL? On the dipstick that's the difference between measuring when the oil is hot and when it's cold. Or did you dump the oil and compare the volume to how much you originally put in?

That's how much it's had added between services to keep the dip gauge above half. I think there are instructions on how much to add in the manual. I know others have needed more. This is compared to my dad who was putting a litre a week into his last Audi ha ha. I told him it would be cheaper to just have the bloody valve stem seals replaced. He literally runs his cars into the ground.

Are you sure 500ml is difference between warm and cold? That seems a bit much. I thought the hatched area of the dipstick was about 1 litre from bottom to top.

[adam298]

What I've been told by the service manager before I drove the car out of the dealership:

- Don't let the sit in idle for too long (over 15 minutes)
- Don't sit on the same speed and rev level for too long (ie: cruise control on highway)

I guess different people will have different opinions on how the cars should be driven but all the above sounds reasonable to me.

Pardon my lack of knowledge on this, but why AND how would the above two dot points be detrimental to the R's engine?

[Tiggy1]

I believe that the reason was that in "the old days" it could lead to glazing of the cylinder bores which then allowed oil to bypass oil rings on pistons which is then burnt with the fuel and goes out the tailpipe (requiring oil to be topped up). TBH though with the advances in engine technology I don't believe any of these old running in techniques are necessary anymore! I certainly wouldn't take as gospel what dealership tells you UNLESS written in black and white from VAG. The (old) TFSI motor used to lose oil by evaporation from the top of valve train - hence why oil catch can was a common performance add-on. I have Tiguan with 2.0TSI and in 3 years of ownership have never needed to add a drop of oil between services and I did nothing different when driving it from the beginning. Having said all that, I'm not a qualified mechanic but I have had 20-odd years experience in heavy vehicle industry and dealing with lubrication companies so do have some experience with oil technology (which has also come ahead significantly in that time)
Upshot is (IMO) - if you're losing oil there most likely is another reason for it that should be investigated!