Volkswagen Enthusiast
If your in Adelaide transporter can do it for $60
I used a kufatech module that plugs into obd port cost me about $72 with delivery
There is a thread on the kufatech module if you want to check it out
Dubber
Might there be some unintended consequences of disabling auto start stop (or switching off every single time you get in the car) ? Ie if the engine/ battery etc is expected to operate in this manner multiple times in every trip and doesnt, could something else go askew as a result?
Just thinking aloud...
Volkswagen Enthusiast
You use a slight (.1-.2 ltr/100) amount more fuelOriginally Posted by GTIWesome
Apart from that less strain on your battery/starter motor is all. I know that they are engineered to withstand the constant use but i hate the jerk you get from a start up and dsg engaging at the same time plus it does add in a slight delay off the line which could be hazardous in the right(wrong for the user) circumstance
2017 Golf Alltrack 135tdi All options
19 inch Brescia Wheels Golf R brakes front and rear
Calipers painted Candy apple gold
New rear sway bar and linkages
Super Moderator
VWwA Super Moderator
Negative? No. Except perhaps 0.1L/100km fuel used and in return you get much longer life out of that AGM battery that cost ~$400+.
Positive? You will save on battery cost which will greatly overcome any negligible extra fuel your engine used, then later you might save on starter motor and ring gear that may need to be replaced. The stop/start system when used is not really save you money if you keep your car outside of the warranty period. If you buy a new car every 3-4years and the stop/start system is not annoying you, then leave it alone.
But, there is absolutely no harm when you push that switch every time before you start driving.
Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
Dubber
Hey Dv52, ive had a request from a few people in the US to see if we can do the same with the ESC button,
Basically pressing it for like 4 seconds after start.
Ive had a look, the button is low when in neutral state, and HIGH when pressed.
the weird thing is, when testing continuity with a multimeter, this also acts as pressing the button,
Its between VCC and PURPLE, or the wire right next to VCC
I Was wondering if you had the wiring diagram or knew where to get it to see if this is possible at all.
Cheers.
Volkswagen Fanatic
wookie: Interesting problem - from the wiring diagram, the ESC/ESP Switch mercifully looks to be the same as the SS switch in that it is a single-throw, single pole switch. But the circuit wiring for ESC/ESP Switch is the electrical reverse of the SS Switch: as you say - it connects +12 Volts to pin #39 on the ABS module (this shouldn't be a problem).
My only concern is whether the ESC switch is the latching type: does the disable/enable function work on the leading/trailing edge of the +12 Volt source like the SS Switch, or does it need the +12 Volt to remain applied?
When the ESC switch is pressed and then released, does the switch return to the normal position, or does it latch in the pressed state (and then return when pressed again)?
Assuming the answer to my question above is NO - here's how to modify my switch to operate as an Auto ESC Kill Switch:
Don
PS: My guess when you used the multi-meter to test continuity is that the ABS module saw the internal battery in the multi-meter as a surrogate for the +12 Volt supply from SC34 in my picture. As you probably already know, continuity testing involves measuring the electrical current from a known battery voltage internal to the multi-meter
Last edited by DV52; 02-07-2018 at 11:13 PM.
Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is on-line, in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the expertise of the wider forum! Thank you.
Dubber
I knew you would be able to help.
One question, where do you find these electrical diagrams. i was looking everywhere online yesterday and couldn't find the exact info.
From what i can gather, it should be non latching,
as pressing and letting go turns off stability control and the switch voltage goes low again
Pressing and holding for a longer period, i.e, 3-5 seconds, this turns off traction control.
So i would pretty much connect the wire between +ve and the button wire, and have the arduino code control the time delay, then the time on, then switch off and sleep.
I really didn't want to connect a wire from +ve to switch wire, incase i blew something up. In your optinion, would connecting the switch to +ve 12v be fine to bypass the switch and test?
wookie: Interesting problem - from the wiring diagram, the ESC/ESP Switch mercifully looks to be the same as the SS switch in that it is a single-throw, single pole switch. But the circuit wiring for ESC/ESP Switch is the electrical reverse of the SS Switch: as you say - it connects +12 Volts to pin #39 on the ABS module (this shouldn't be a problem).
My only concern is whether the ESC switch is the latching type: does the disable/enable function work on the leading/trailing edge of the +12 Volt source like the SS Switch, or does it need the +12 Volt to remain applied?
When the ESC switch is pressed and then released, does the switch return to the normal position, or does it latch in the pressed state (and then return when pressed again)?
Assuming the answer to my question above is NO - here's how to modify my switch to operate as an Auto ESC Kill Switch:
Don
PS: My guess when you used the multi-meter to test continuity is that the ABS module saw the internal battery in the multi-meter as a surrogate for the +12 Volt supply from SC34 in my picture. As you probably already know, continuity testing involves measuring the electrical current from a known battery voltage internal to the multi-meter
Last edited by wookie_666; 03-07-2018 at 11:16 AM.
Dubber
DV52, you may be able to explain this a little better for me. The minus schematic on that italian page posted in the last page, just dont make sense to me. They connect the 3.3v from the regulator through the relay and diode to the SS wire and in my bench testing, that sends approx 2.7v to the SS wire when the wire is not pressed. That SS wire is high at 2v when not pressed. Would this cause issues
Would it not be better to have the OUTPUT from the attiny and the input to the attiny using photocouplers? This way the two systems are not linked in anyway?
Just tryign to understand the circuit before i go ahead and try to replicate it.
Dubber
I have put together a little circuit using tinkercad circuits.
Here is the link if you wanted to have a look.
Basically. You have a button on the left, and the ATTiny on the right (represented by the UNO)
When the button is not pressed, it is high at 2v
when pressed it closes to ground.
this image shows the voltage at the button when it is being manually pressed. Is the 5MV too high to be classified as LOW or is it LOW enough.
This image is when nothing is pressed, and the ATTiny is not outputting anything.
You can see the voltage at the button is 2v
This is when the ATTiny is outputting HIGH to simulate pressing the button. The voltage at the button is pulled quite LOW but it isn't all the way, again, i assume this is LOW enough.
My question is, if i wanted to incorporate the traction button also, which needs 12v, i wouldn't be able to use this circuit, i would have to modify it to have another transistor or something.
Would the ATTiny work with 2 x photocouplers, one connecting the SS to GND and one connecting the Traction to 12V?
I would then have 2 inputs, reading each button state at startup? This would then save to EEPROM the setting wanted for the module whether to run or not for that button.
Using 4 GPIO pins on the ATTINY is doable i think.
Volkswagen Fanatic
^^^ wookie: we have had the "2 Volt" discussion before (a few pages back) - one of the reasons why my original design uses a miniature electro-mechanical relay is to provide complete electrical isolation with the internal control module circuits. The problem is that we don't know the electrical sourcing and sinking capabilities of pin #39 on the ABS module- you could experiment, but it might be an expensive exercise if you fry an internal component.
Opto couplers can be used for isolation as discussed HERE, but I suspect that modification will be needed because of the different wiring arrangement in the ESP button.
As for your question about sourcing the +12 Volt supply for your device -if you don't want to splice into the SC34 wire on the ESP switch, then take the supply from anywhere - just make sure that it's a T15 supply because my design needs a 12V switch-on pulse to start the SS kill process. But really, if you wire the Vcc supply to the SC34 end of the the relay contacts, there are no additional wires needed!
Don
Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is on-line, in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the expertise of the wider forum! Thank you.
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