Blind Spot Assist setting failure to stick

[notaGolfR]

My Blind Spot Assist setting was failing to stick. As soon as R(everse) was selected it went to Off.

Back from the Service Department yesterday the problem of the Blind Spot Assist setting failure to stick seems to be fixed.


fyi they delved into on board diagnosis and found "numerous error codes" which they suspected were caused by my efforts at adding non-genuine devices messing with the electrics (*see below). They were pleasingly diplomatic about it as they could not be sure and there was no charge under warranty.


I learned that there are two types of error codes which as I understand it are ones that are merely logged occurences (big brother type) and the other type make a change which is retained and require deletion.


To my mind, what I did should not have caused a problem but it certainly sounds like the fault is with me. VW advised not to connect any non-genuine devices to the OB2 port. If anyone can advise what I should do in future, please advise.


* In chronological order, here are the non-genuine devices added
1)dash cam This simply required plugging into the 12V socket on the centre console.
2) heads up display. This one of those that lie on the dash and reflect on the windscreen. It plugs into the OB2 socket and a small USB type plug goes into the device. I liked it because it showed the true speed which differs from the o.e. instruments. I disconnected it because a speeding alarm (additional to the o.e.) was annoying.
3)another dash cam. This one is a rear-view mirror type that is placed over the o.e. mirror. I like it because it is wider than the o.e. mirror and can show the camera image in the mirror itself when a button is pushed. It also comes with a "free" rear camera which shows its image in the mirror, thus no need for an extra screen cluttering up.
4)Instead of powering the free cam from the reversing light I installed it as a front cam which meant I had to power it from another 12V point and have a switch to turn it on/off. Turning it on activates its image in the mirror. I disconnected the car battery and removed it to get access to a grommet for the wiring to go through the firewall. On re-connecting the battery I got a scare as an heap of errors messages appeared but, as is normal, they self corrected when the car was driven for a distance.
5) I installed a 12V multiadapter (4 sockets) from E-bay. It has switches for each socket. It takes 12V from the o.e. console socket and is installed neatly in the 4motion cubby. Thus it has three plugs in it for the first dash cam, the mirror dash cam, and the front camera. I extracted the cubby, and cut a hole in the back to feed the plugs through. I had to disconnect the o.e. plugs at the back of the cubby which power the USB and AUX-IN sockets. They were re-connected.

[Hillbilly]

You didnt need to touch the battery Why didnt you just use an addafuse off a fuse in the panel behind the glovebox or maybe there are even spare slots with power to one side and you can just stick one in there. You made a simple job hard and introduced unecessary error codes. I had two dashcams installed and both were run off spare fuse slots and never caused any errors Ever

Putting extra stuff onto VW circuits if you dont really know what you are doing is fraught with danger

[notaGolfR]

You didnt need to touch the battery Why didnt you just use an addafuse off a fuse in the panel behind the glovebox or maybe there are even spare slots with power to one side and you can just stick one in there. You made a simple job hard and introduced unecessary error codes. I had two dashcams installed and both were run off spare fuse slots and never caused any errors Ever

Putting extra stuff onto VW circuits if you dont really know what you are doing is fraught with danger

Yes, lesson learned. Thanks for the tips. I only reluctantly messed with the battery to get access to a through-the-firewall grommet which is behind it and around behind the damper turret and awkward to get at. In the end, after messing with the battery I actually found I could leave it in place and fish the lead thru the grommet with a hooked bit of coat hanger wire.

[Hillbilly]

Yes, lesson learned. Thanks for the tips. I only reluctantly messed with the battery to get access to a through-the-firewall grommet which is behind it and around behind the damper turret and awkward to get at. In the end, after messing with the battery I actually found I could leave it in place and fish the lead thru the grommet with a hooked bit of coat hanger wire.

So you fitted a "front cam" where on the car???? Usually does on the windscreen and in all the dashcams I have installed have never had to go under the bonnet for anything

[DV52]

Notwithstanding Hillbilly's sage advice - I suspect that the DTCs (error codes) were produced as part of the installation process. Blind spot assist (if it's the App that lights-up the LEDs on your mirrors) uses a couple of radar devices that are located in the driver and passenger side fenders (lower part of the rear hatch area). They don't like to be disconnected from the CAN network because it messes with the "parameterize" variables - which are a set of basic settings that are established when the radars are first installed.

Clearing the DTCs is easy and re-setting some basic settings on the control modules can be easy using a number of diagnostic devices like VCDS, VCP or OBD11. However, depending on the type of error message that occurred on the Blind-spot radars (I assume this is what happened in your case) - re calibration can require the use of a special alignment tool which only dealers (and some specialized independent shops) have.

Of course, given the limited information about the exact nature of the error messages - I'm just guessing!!

Don

[notaGolfR]

So you fitted a "front cam" where on the car???? Usually does on the windscreen and in all the dashcams I have installed have never had to go under the bonnet for anything

To explain, see 3) in my long-winded post where I said "It also comes with a "free" rear camera which shows its image in the mirror, thus no need for an extra screen cluttering up. "
That free cam was fitted on the front bumper, just under, and shielded from dirt, insects etc the numberplate. My judgement at how close I am to obstructions is poor and it helps me see them by a flick of the power switch to that cam which makes its image show on the dashcam mirror.

[notaGolfR]

Notwithstanding Hillbilly's sage advice - I suspect that the DTCs (error codes) were produced as part of the installation process. Blind spot assist (if it's the App that lights-up the LEDs on your mirrors) uses a couple of radar devices that are located in the driver and passenger side fenders (lower part of the rear hatch area). They don't like to be disconnected from the CAN network because it messes with the "parameterize" variables - which are a set of basic settings that are established when the radars are first installed.

Clearing the DTCs is easy and re-setting some basic settings on the control modules can be easy using a number of diagnostic devices like VCDS, VCP or OBD11. However, depending on the type of error message that occurred on the Blind-spot radars (I assume this is what happened in your case) - re calibration can require the use of a special alignment tool which only dealers (and some specialized independent shops) have.

Of course, given the limited information about the exact nature of the error messages - I'm just guessing!!

Don

Thx DEVIANT52 (. In the process of fitting the "free" cam to the front bumper I did disconnect the plug to the radar do-dad of the VW badge as I gained access by removing the top front grille. Maybe that affected the rear fender radar arrangement.
The gap distance system (using front radar) for Adaptive Cruise Control has always been fine and was unaffected after battery re-connection and driving for a spell.