2006/7 A3 2.0T Quattro Performance

[nick_sixx]

Hi guys,

Haven't posted here in several years but looking into VAG for my next car.

I've had more than enough FWD hatches in my time, so I am pretty sold on getting something AWD. Looking at the 2nd gen A3s (with models in the 2005-2007 range), the 147kw/280nm quattro models have piqued my interest, however the specs make out as if they are EXTREMELY slow - 9.5secs 0-100!! Is this correct? I am currently driving an NB MX5 which is very slow, but fun. I find it hard to believe that an AWD car with 147kw could possibly be any slower (and obviously substantially less fun).

Can anyone confirm if these stats are correct? From what I can see, it looks like the FWD models using the same TFSI engines run 6-7sec 0-100km times? Would probably look at getting it chipped via APR/Superchips etc.

Thanks in advance

[kamold]

Not sure where you are getting that figure from.
Stock published 0-100 for that car is 6.4sec.

With a tune you'll get that down under 6.
I used to have a 2009 2.0TFSI Quattro Sportback with an APR stage 1. Never properly timed but with a stopwatch it was low 5sec.

[nick_sixx]

That figure is published on Carsales, so not sure if it is pulling data from Redbook or something else?

The Quattro is on-demand AWD is it not? Looking at WRXs and Libertys as alternatives, but they have held their value extremely well so finding an affordable one is a nightmare.

Re: APR tune - is it just a downpipe+cat needed for stage 2?

[kamold]

Correct Quattro in the A3 is a Haldex coupling all wheel drive system (on demand).

Different tuners have slightly different definitions of 'stages' but generally stage 2 is a new ECU map and downpipe.

[nick_sixx]

Thanks so much for your help - the A3 quattro has just jumped to number 1 on my list of new cars.

Any idea of rough 0-100km times with a stage 2 tune? (I realise that this isn't the only measure of performance, but I have been missing that turbo spool acceleration feeling so I want to get a car that covers that base well!)

[kamold]

I loved mine.
Best fun car I've owned. Only sold it for more space for kids and their accessories.

[AdamD]

The 147kw/280Nm engine is the same EA113 as seen in the Mk5 Golf GTI. Tuning options are plentiful, and they're a known quantity without major issues. Acceleration times will depend on the transmission you choose - DSG makes a big difference and it's quite tricky to launch a manual AWD car hard without being brutal. With a DSG stage 1 I'd expect mid-high 5s with an accurate timer; stage 2 (assuming tune, downpipe, CAI upgrades; you can also upgrade the intercooler and HPFP to go to stage 2+) should drop that to low 5s.

[nick_sixx]

The 147kw/280Nm engine is the same EA113 as seen in the Mk5 Golf GTI. Tuning options are plentiful, and they're a known quantity without major issues. Acceleration times will depend on the transmission you choose - DSG makes a big difference and it's quite tricky to launch a manual AWD car hard without being brutal. With a DSG stage 1 I'd expect mid-high 5s with an accurate timer; stage 2 (assuming tune, downpipe, CAI upgrades; you can also upgrade the intercooler and HPFP to go to stage 2+) should drop that to low 5s.

Thanks for this, great info! Going to test drive a couple next weekend so hopefully I can find a good one.

Looking for a manual version because I believe that era DSG was the one with the issues? (06/07?). Also I just generally prefer a manual.

I also have a list of questions that I can't seem to find the answer to online:

1) I will want to lower the car by 30-50mm. Can I use the stock shocks with springs of this height? I 100% understand that it's best to do springs+shocks all at once, but depending on how much I end up paying for the car this probably wont be in the budget for a year or so. Id rather do the springs now, and then do the shocks if/when they need replacing

2) Can I use springs designed for an S3 or Golf R on an 8P A3 quattro? (my understanding is that the FWD sportback uses different rear springs to the AWD version)

3) Is a downpipe + hi-flow cat and K&N panel filter enough for a stage 1 APR? Are there any other <$1000 reflash options in Australia? I have had success in the past with Bluefin (Superchips) and EDS

4) If I can find a model with sunroof, can this be used with roof racks? Looking for a model with sunroof+roof rails, but it'd be handy to know if the sunroof can actually be opened?

5) Would ideally like to take the car for a pretty comprehensive service after purchasing. What are some common problems that I should look to be addressed? Preliminary research says that intake buildup is notoriously bad on the EA113s?

[AdamD]

Looking for a manual version because I believe that era DSG was the one with the issues? (06/07?). Also I just generally prefer a manual.

Yep, the DQ250 (6-speed wet clutch DSG) was a bit risky pre-2010 really. A manual is a safe bet; just don't expect to out-accelerate an A45 AMG.

1) I will want to lower the car by 30-50mm. Can I use the stock shocks with springs of this height? I 100% understand that it's best to do springs+shocks all at once, but depending on how much I end up paying for the car this probably wont be in the budget for a year or so. Id rather do the springs now, and then do the shocks if/when they need replacing

Specific springs and shocks are generally designed to work together; change one significantly and the pairing may be less than ideal. Particularly if lowering by 30mm or more, the shocks/dampers will be compressed well beyond their ideal height, and ride comfort and bump/rebound performance will be altered significantly. You're also going to substantially shorten the life of those dampers. I'd suggest you wait until you're ready to replace everything as a set - it'll mean you can save the OEM springs and shocks and reuse them later if needs be, and you won't need to waste good money on a second installation job down the track.

2) Can I use springs designed for an S3 or Golf R on an 8P A3 quattro? (my understanding is that the FWD sportback uses different rear springs to the AWD version)

Can't say for sure, but they may quite possibly fit.

3) Is a downpipe + hi-flow cat and K&N panel filter enough for a stage 1 APR? Are there any other <$1000 reflash options in Australia? I have had success in the past with Bluefin (Superchips) and EDS

Stage 1 is software only; no hardware mods required. Stage 2 requires a CAI and downpipe (and you don't need to change the cat). There are many alternatives to APR out there, and the Tuning and Performance subforum has a ton of threads on the subject, with lots of opinions and arguments to match. APR are generally the most expensive and in the past have justified that with the greatest amount of R&D and excellent local support (although some of that may be changing now that Harding Performance has lost the local distribution rights and APR USA are selling direct). Other tunes (like Superchips) tend to start out around the $800 mark.

4) If I can find a model with sunroof, can this be used with roof racks? Looking for a model with sunroof+roof rails, but it'd be handy to know if the sunroof can actually be opened?

5) Would ideally like to take the car for a pretty comprehensive service after purchasing. What are some common problems that I should look to be addressed? Preliminary research says that intake buildup is notoriously bad on the EA113s?

Sunroof on the Mk5/Mk6 Golf retracted into the roof space, and I expect that would also be the case with the A3 so you should be fine to fit racks - although you'd need to investigate whether you'd be able to use the tilt function safely depending on the racks you choose and the clearance available. But I'd say you should be fine.

The EA113 can get some nasty intake buildup and filthy carbon on the valves, because it's direct injection only and the cleaning agents in good fuel won't be cleaning out the manifold. There are various methods of cleaning, although some are much more labour-intensive and expensive. Probably not something that'd be covered as part of a normal service.

The diverter valve on the older EA113s is a very common failure part; it's had several revisions over the years. Boost leaks as a result will mean the car will be down on power. So you can always ask your mechanic to check the DV and inspect for leaks. Depending on the age of the car you buy, a new replacement DV from ECS or similar would possibly be a good investment.

Obviously make sure that all the regular required servicing has been performed - clean oil and filter, timing belt when due, etc etc. Nothing else major that I can think of off the top of my head. Maybe PM one of our specialist mechanic members (e.g. Umai Naa!!, Transporter) for more info on this.