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Thread: Tools required for oil change.

  1. #1
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    Question Tools required for oil change.

    I'm thinking of intermediate oil changes for the 103TDI 4x4 and I like to know exactly what tools I need prior to clambering underneath.
    I noticed that the heavy duty plastic that covers the entire area under the engine requiring removal of bolts and screws to get to see the sump plug. (12mm ? bolts, phillips head screws?.......? Sump plug )
    Also, if I leave the 'tray' off will cooling be compromised?

  2. #2
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    Probably need Torx bits in sizes T25 and T30 to get the undertray off.

    19mm spanner for the sump plug.

    32mm socket for the oil filter housing.

    Put the tray back on. It's quieter.
    '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
    '01 Beetle 2.0

  3. #3
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Umai Naa!! View Post
    Probably need Torx bits in sizes T25 and T30 to get the undertray off.

    19mm spanner for the sump plug.

    32mm socket for the oil filter housing.

    Put the tray back on. It's quieter.
    Great! Thanks for that.
    Coming from an LPG powered (dual fuel) car it's a shock to see oil go black so quickly.

  4. #4
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    That's normal for a diesel. Nothing to worry about at all.

    Only takes 5 minutes of running with new oil to make it go black.
    '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
    '01 Beetle 2.0

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryeman View Post
    I'm thinking of intermediate oil changes for the 103TDI 4x4 and I like to know exactly what tools I need prior to clambering underneath.
    I noticed that the heavy duty plastic that covers the entire area under the engine requiring removal of bolts and screws to get to see the sump plug. (12mm ? bolts, phillips head screws?.......? Sump plug )
    Also, if I leave the 'tray' off will cooling be compromised?
    As Umai said. Also make sure you have a long extension for that 32mm socket, I use universal joint or swivel extension. For the tray you need T20 torx and the rear torx bolts could be either T30 or even bigger T40. The tray, as you guessed helps with the cooling, so leave it on.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Transporter View Post
    As Umai said. Also make sure you have a long extension for that 32mm socket, I use universal joint or swivel extension. For the tray you need T20 torx and the rear torx bolts could be either T30 or even bigger T40. The tray, as you guessed helps with the cooling, so leave it on.
    Thanks again.
    Ryco oil filter or 'genuine'?

  7. #7
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    Genuine is cheaper at retail than Ryco is at trade price.
    '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
    '01 Beetle 2.0

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryeman View Post
    Thanks again.
    Ryco oil filter or 'genuine'?
    Use always genuine, for peace of mind as well.

  9. #9
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    "Genuine" is only good if it is a quality product. I have had "genuine" oil filters for some cars (?Daihatsu) that are worse than Ryco.

    Aren't there a couple of German brands that make the the filters for VAG - Mann+Hummel, another. So depends on the extent of the stealer markup.

    Have always managed better than genuine spark plugs for petrol cars for less money.
    2015 Polo Comfortline 6M + Driving Comfort Package
    2011/11 Yeti 103 TDI 6M + Columbus media centre/satnav
    (2008 MY09 Polo 9N3 TDI retired hurt hail damage)

  10. #10
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    Hengst and Mahle filters are OEM spec.

    Most genuine oil filters for VW are anywhere between $20 and $30 retail. Theres a couple a tad over $30, but they're not commonly used.

    Most Daihatsu ones are re-boxed Toyota Denso ones anyway. Yet to see one of them fail.
    '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
    '01 Beetle 2.0

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