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Thread: K and N 57S-9501 Intake

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by joel0407 View Post
    I can assure you guys there is no more noise with the rear muffler removed. And no you don't get any turbo spool sound either.

    I have both the K&N panel filter and my rear muffler removed.

    The DPF kills any chance of noise from the exhaust.

    Happy Days.
    Wrapped to find someone who's done some mods.

    Did you take off the rear muffler complete to the join and then get another pipe made up?
    If you did can you tell me the cost and the weight of the old part?
    Did it make any difference, apart from the weight reduction and did the panel filter change make any difference?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by CardinalSin View Post
    Wrapped to find someone who's done some mods.

    Did you take off the rear muffler complete to the join and then get another pipe made up?
    If you did can you tell me the cost and the weight of the old part?
    Did it make any difference, apart from the weight reduction and did the panel filter change make any difference?
    I can't tell you much about the old muffler. It's in my old mans shed in Bathurst NSW and I'm in Darwin. I was pretty heavy, not something you could pick up one handed (well not easily). It cost me $150 in stainless although the muffler guy is a mate from school (many years ago). It consists of 2 90 degree bends and twin tips. The whole new section is 3" stainless with 2x3" tips.

    I can take some photos tomorrow, it's dark now and I wont be able to show much under the car with the shed lights.

    I'm not convinced the K&N filter is that good, considering how good the standard filter is. The K@N is pretty thin (standard K&N) original Skoda filter is very thick with a lot of pleats. More and deeper pleats mean more surface area and more flow.

    There is no more noise from the exhaust but it doesn't sound like it's busting with heaps of back pressure at the higher revs. Anyone who has reved a later model car with a standard exhaust will know the sound. The sound like a whistle that's being blown too hard to make a whistle sound and it just make the lot of air through a small hole sound. Well the removing the muffle get rid of that sound.

    Happy Days.

  3. #13
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    I think my next mod will be a heavier rear anti-sway bar just to tune out the understeer a little.

    Near all new cars are biased to understeer as it's safer for less experienced drivers. If your going to fast, the front understeers, you back off, weight transfers forward, it turns in and away you go. If a vehicle biases toward over steer it takes some more driver input to correct the oversteer but it's generally faster, especially with a all wheel drive car. I did the same to my WRX and it made a hell of a difference.

    The Yeti is no WRX but it still has the same understeer the WRX had before I fitted the rear anti-sway bar.

    Most parts are interchangeable with VW Golfs so there is quite a but available.

    Happy Days.

  4. #14
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    Thanks for the feedback.
    I would be happy to stick with the 60mm pipe diameter that's there already. The gasses contract as they cool so unless it's 3"[76mm] from the turbo there's nothing to be gained by stepping it up at the back and it's heavier and more expensive.
    I'm assuming you cut the muffler off and didn't fabricate it from the halfway join?
    Looking forward to the pics!

    I was impressed with the stock air filter too, for the same reasons you gave.

    The muffler on the Mitsubishi Triton 2.5CRD I replaced had been pressure tested at 3-4psi back pressure on the car. No wonder they sound like compressed air.

    I was impressed with the handling after coming from an 86, even more so when I tried a 1.2 manual with the lighter front end. That was one of the attractions, that I could still enjoy driving as well as being able to buy things and take them home. I bought a new WRX in 1996 and loved it but it understeered something chronic under full power on tight turns, you had to nurse it around and jump on it as you came out of the bend.

    Please let me know if you find a thicker rear anti roll bar.

  5. #15
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    White line do a anti roll bar and there is a join in the Exhaust just before the muffler so no cutting.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by joel0407 View Post
    White line do a anti roll bar and there is a join in the Exhaust just before the muffler so no cutting.
    Going out to look!
    There's no join there on mine. It's one pipe from the join under the back of the front seats and that's welded into the muffler.

    What build date is yours?
    Last edited by CardinalSin; 17-02-2014 at 12:43 AM.

  7. #17
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  8. #18
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    Sorry about the car being a bit dirty but it's wet season up here at moment so it's raining near every day.

    Don't forget about the VCDS changes too. I changed my coming and leaving lights to my fog lights instead of the Bi-Xenons also added the needle sweep so the speedo and Tacho do a sweep every time you turn the key.

    Happy Days.

  9. #19
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    Thanks for the pics. The tips look good.
    Where yours has the flange mine just keeps going into the muffler.

    A couple of questions you missed if you wouldn't mind?

    What's your build date? Mine in Feb 2012.
    Did it make any difference to performance apart from reducing the weight? It should have reduced turbo lag if nothing else.

  10. #20
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    My missus is away in the car ATM. I ordered it Oct 2012 and it arrived between Christmas 2012 and New Years day 2013 so it's got to be a late 2012 build.

    As for the performance I changed the exhaust before 2000km so it wasn't really run in and I hadn't really driven it hard enough to notice any difference. The main thing I am trying to improve is DPF life. Many who have bigger exhaust report their DPF last longer and do less regens but it's hard to tell really because those who fit bigger exhausts usually drive a bit harder and that is also know to reduce regens and extend the life of the DPF.

    Happy Days.

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