The Yeti went in yesterday to rectify a horrible rattle at idle. Has the 7 speed DSG. Turns out its the clutch packs need replacing, so along with soft ware upgrades and mechatronics recall they may as well give us a new one. As if.
Last edited by Transporter; 24-02-2014 at 03:41 PM.
2014 MY14 Corrida Red Elegance Wagon TDI
2009 MY10 Race Blue RS Wagon TSI 6 sp. manual. (Gone)
2011 MY12 Yeti 77 TSI DSG.
Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
Wow sorry to hear about the DSG troubles. Hopefully that 's the end of them
Indium Grey Golf 7.5 Alltrack 135tdi Premium - all options
Any chance an update on yr DSG problem?
How long was it off the road?
Did they elaborate on the specific issues?
I pick up my 103 DSG in a couple of hrs.......woopeeee!
In the interests of a long DSG life, hopefully.
One thing worth doing is to slip it into neutral, the same as you would[should] a manual, when you stop for more than a short while.
It's trying to go in drive which means the clutch is being slipped. It doesn't matter with a torque converter because it's just fluid being heated but it does with a clutch, even one running in oil like our 6 speeds.
There are road works locally with a good 5 minute stop if you cop it wrong. I've found you can slip it into neutral and turn it off[windows down first] then restart and slip it back into drive. No need to go through to park or even depress the shift button.
But that's what I do, (saves brake globe life also) so what exactly is going on in the gearbox when yr waiting stationary.
my guess is the hydraulic pump is holding the clutch clear BUT I've noticed if I use the hand brake instead of the brake pedal it wants to creep forward as if it's slipping the clutch.
If only you could get the exact technical reasons backing their instructions.
Why are we treated as dummies and airheads?
Yes, when your foot is NOT on the brake pedal and the car is in gear, it assumes you want to take off. With only the handbrake on and in gear, it makes the assumption you're performing a hill-start with the handbrake and performs the necessary actions. Which is why you should always use the foot brake.
as for technical information, good luck with that
Confirm what OP said about leaving in gear
when you use the footbrake it holds the clutch out
there is no detriment to the clutch plates(s) - it's in the manual somewhere
If you choose to use the handbrake my guess is you MUST put it into neutral -
otherwise the clutch WILL be fighting the brake as you mentioned
unless you are doing a hill start - but then "hill holder" does that for you anyway
I noticed this when I drive into my garage - it is a tight fit and I have to go slow
As soon as you touch the brake (foot) drive ceases
as soon as you let the brake off the clutch engages - "enthusiastically"
very disconcerting as you try and creep into the garage
what I found best was to line up and at idle, drive 3/4 into the space before touching brake
this disengages the clutch and then it can "coast" the last little bit
If I stop 2 feet short when I let the brake off it wants to move off too quickly
and you can't use 2 feet either - also in the manual
Sorry if off topic
Good posts.
So why could it be detrimental to use neutral instead of drive?
It shouldn't matter when shutting it down at roadworks with the engine off and I guess it's a bit pointless idling in neutral if the clutch is disengaged while you have your foot on the brake. It's just from a technical point of interest.
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