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Thread: Error Free Number Plate LED Lighting - The CHEAP and easy way!

  1. #1
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    Error Free Number Plate LED Lighting - The CHEAP and easy way!

    Most of you probably know about this, but I've said I'll write up a quick guide for those who don't!

    There are LED lights available with in-built resistors, but they are way overpriced. This is the way I do it, and It's extremely cheap. If you put LEDs in your number plate lights you will get an error message, and the lights will turn off after a few secs. You don't need to buy the overpriced bulbs with inbuilt resistors!!

    What you need:
    2x 39mm LED lights from Autobarn (example), any colour, fluoro green, white, whatever suits your fancy. ~8$ each.
    2x 270ohm 1 watt resistors. (These are available from Jaycar for 49c each)
    Soldering Iron + Wire
    Optional: Shrink plastic stuff that you cut to shape of your resistor, and use heat (hairdryer) to fit. I did this just incase to protect the resistor from the LEDs heat.

    I wrapped it around like so:



    Yes my soldering sucks, but It still works

    This is what the 8$ ones from Autobarn look like (blue):


    Apologies for terrible pic quality!

    If your bulbs are going out, double check your soldering. Get it as stable as possible. Also, you can solder the resistors onto the frames themselves, so you can swap the bulbs easy. I will be doing this next time.

    ---------- Post added at 01:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:07 AM ----------

    ps - The 2 pics above have the bulbs in the correct orientation. Judge by the writing on the bulb casing, that is the correct placement.
    If your LEDs don't work, just rotate and try again!
    I look at my V-Dub, and all I can think is....."Dat Ass....."

  2. #2
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    Nice write up.

  3. #3
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    Good work. I've done a similar ghetto job on mine as I was getting sick of the warning every time the headlights came on.
    I used lower resistance resistors though, which I think I will change. I used 22ohm 5w which I think over time will probably generate too much heat when next to the SMD LEDs as well.

    Think I'll take them out and use similar high resitance ones as you have.

    Will likely keep soldering them to the globes and have some spares if required as its pretty hard to heat up the OEM contacts enough to get the solder to flow...
    Last edited by kamold; 12-03-2012 at 11:31 AM.
    2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC|
    2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500

  4. #4
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    Cheers m8!

  5. #5
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    I bought some white led's from jaycar and they looked like sh&t. The tuner dome ones are hyper white like xenon's and dont throw any codes. $29 isnt that dear for a plu'n'play led that looks good. imo
    Volvo S60 RD T6

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by thezoneR32 View Post
    I bought some white led's from jaycar and they looked like sh&t. The tuner dome ones are hyper white like xenon's and dont throw any codes. $29 isnt that dear for a plu'n'play led that looks good. imo

    Where did you get the tunerdome ones? According to their website, the dont ship internationally for orders under $100
    2008 Metallic Black Jetta TFSI

    2001 Pearl White Toyota Crown Estate

  7. #7
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    As far as I can make out there are no available LEDs that are error free with the newer BCMs. Even the vw OEM LEDs will throw an error without correct revision and coding of the BCM.

    You need to modify byte 18 of central electrics (the body control module) which is 'protected' now by vw and has been seen to be damaged by incorrect coding.

    So on newer cars adding resistors in serial is the only way to eliminate the bulb out warnings.
    2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC|
    2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamold View Post
    I used lower resistance resistors though, which I think I will change. I used 22ohm 5w which I think over time will probably generate too much heat when next to the SMD LEDs as well.
    Are these the ones in a white box? I got some 5W onces from Jaycar and they were so big they wouldn't fit in the cavity...

  9. #9
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    Yeah the white ceramic ones. I located them up above the LEDs into the bumper.
    2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC|
    2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500

  10. #10
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    So you took the whole lamp housing out?

    I thought of something where you could wire it lower to get some airflow over it.

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