In terms of the safe motor the issue is not always the motor failing but the linkages /gears inside the lock unit.
If you can scan the module you will most likely find the code logged for the safe motor implausible signal or mechanical malfunction.
Until you can scan the codes again I wouldn't spend any money of chase other concerns.
I meant were you measuring the supply signal to the connector or the earth / return from the connector![]()
Will locks from ECS tuning fit my car?
Specifically there ones - ECS Tuning
The plastic in the picture of the ecs tuning ones is cream coloured - my locks are black.
Did you fix your lock yet? Ours didn't work for about a year but I fixed it recently. After checking that every part of the lock worked and electrics were fine (in the lock, didn't check voltage when locking) I tried removing the overcentre spring, don't know what it is called but talking about the little round spring below the red plastic arm seen in the 3rd photo you posted. It is about 10mm in diameter and serves no purpose from what I could figure other than to apply just enough extra load to prevent the lock from locking every time. Has worked perfectly ever since. Saved around $1000 on stealerships quote. Fixed the cruise control too, at no cost (dealer said new switch needed - $300)
Thanks
That an interesting idea - I would have tried it if I thought of it when I had the doors open.
My locks have other problems tho - so I think I would still need to replace them. One side doesn't unlock reliably and the door open switch doesn't work on either side (nor the boot).
I thought that the door open/closed micro switch was unreliable so I wired in a lead to the terminals of the switch so I could close it and fool the system into thinking the door was always closed. I left the ends of the lead behind the inside door handle for easy access. So far the lock has been working perfectly and I haven't needed the jumper wire.
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