Battery standby current

[HiTorque]

OK, just tested twice leaving driver door opened - went to sleeping mode under 50mA in less than 20min. Now the question - what is it? Is locking mechanism jamming something or shorting wires in the door? Is it easy to get to locking area inside?

[Transporter]

OK, just tested twice leaving driver door opened - went to sleeping mode under 50mA in less than 20min. Now the question - what is it? Is locking mechanism jamming something or shorting wires in the door? Is it easy to get to locking area inside?

Test the door lock actuators, remove the door trim if you can't get into the wires. That 50mA current sound right and it should be close to that when you fully lock the car. I measured around 15mA within 20minutes after locking.

[HiTorque]

Test the door lock actuators, remove the door trim if you can't get into the wires. That 50mA current sound right and it should be close to that when you fully lock the car. I measured around 15mA within 20minutes after locking.

Ok, I pull the driver door trim out - the most over-engineered stuff I have ever seen... Now, how can I get to the actuator? It's somewhere between inner and outer door skins, it will be fun to put it back...

[Maverick]

Ok, I pull the driver door trim out - the most over-engineered stuff I have ever seen... Now, how can I get to the actuator? It's somewhere between inner and outer door skins, it will be fun to put it back...

You can't test it easily, this is why you need vagcom because you can do it all via the computer.

The lock mechanism and actuator is all built in together. You need to remove the door handle/lock before you remove it as well.

[Transporter]

Ok, I pull the driver door trim out - the most over-engineered stuff I have ever seen... Now, how can I get to the actuator? It's somewhere between inner and outer door skins, it will be fun to put it back...

How about rubber sleeve that is between door and door pillar, pull the rubber sleeve out and you have the wiring exposed to you. If you know the colour of the wire, you're in business.

[HiTorque]

How about rubber sleeve that is between door and door pillar, pull the rubber sleeve out and you have the wiring exposed to you. If you know the colour of the wire, you're in business.

Mate, this was the best idea I got for this case Apparently harness in the rubber boot was damaged and after I slightly fiddled with it I had no controls on the door working neither right blinker. I was actually a bit scared as fuel cap wasn't operational so I called VW and asked to book me in.. I guess the harness needs a replacement which is not good as the car is only 5 y.o. I don't think the harness can be repaired unless someone can prove otherwise. It means VW has specified wire that isn't flexible enough for this application. I googled this and there are dozen of reports from US with Jetta 2006-07 having the same symptoms No power in driver side door - FixYa.

2006 jetta door switches not working properly - TDIClub Forums

I wonder if battery drain had anything to do with it, I would expect having blown fuses if those broken wires were touching the exposed metal.. it feels like vw was designed in S.Africa...

[HiTorque]

..and this is the image:


Two wires brown-green and brown-red cut, three have insulation damaged. I fixed them all though wiring is too stiff for this application and some wires were overstretched.
I will test battery drain current tomorrow, hopefully will be ok.