Battery standby current

[Transporter]

I did more testing with brand new battery (12.77V) and closed bonnet. It looks like car wasn't in sleep mode as battery voltage dropped overnight to 12.55V. I wonder if any particular module is responsible for "sleep" activation or any electrically monitored switches are not working like bonnet or trunk. I don't have VAGCOM but three multimeters and Fluke clamping current probe with a lead to meter

It could be just cold temperature overnight. Also, if you start the car with brand new battery and don't drive it for I would say at least 1/2 hour to return the energy you used with just 1 start up than the 12.55V on could morning doesn't indicate problem to me, letting it stand for 2 to 3 days should give better indication if there is parasitic current draw or not.

[Maverick]

I did more testing with brand new battery (12.77V) and closed bonnet. It looks like car wasn't in sleep mode as battery voltage dropped overnight to 12.55V. I wonder if any particular module is responsible for "sleep" activation or any electrically monitored switches are not working like bonnet or trunk. I don't have VAGCOM but three multimeters and Fluke clamping current probe with a lead to meter

I would start with a Vagcom/VCDS check as this will show if there are any faults.

As far as sleep mode goes this is pretty reliable if everything is coded correctly (even without it still generally works across the board). Even if one module was faulty (let's say you had one of the cheap chinese headunits that never work properly) the rest of the modules will shut down still with just the one module still running.

If the bonnet or a door or the hatch is open the car will still enter sleep mode and lights will still be turned off but it can affect measurements and testing in strange ways, I had a lot of problems working out pinouts on the door controllers as the damn controller kept going into sleep mode and the only way to stop this was opening and closing the door which is hard when half of it is hanging off and you're trying to test.

[Transporter]

Well, he doesn't have Vagcom/VCDS. Next best thing he could do is pull out the fuses (with the current clamp around the battery negative) one by one and see which circuit is responsible for excessive current draw.

[HiTorque]

done, saw car in sleep mode at least twice - under 40-50mA, with open bonnet and driver door. It doesn't happen however when all doors locked, bonnet opened and central locking is on. I can't shut the bonnet as current clamp is getting jammed and it slightly opens and reading all over the place. I guess central locking module needs some medicine Where is located, pls?

[Transporter]

Maybe it would be worthwhile to check current at all door actuators. The one of them could need adjusting/replacing. As Maverick said it would be much easier diagnosed with Vagcom/VCDS.

[Idle]

done, saw car in sleep mode at least twice - under 40-50mA, with open bonnet and driver door. It doesn't happen however when all doors locked, bonnet opened and central locking is on. I can't shut the bonnet as current clamp is getting jammed and it slightly opens and reading all over the place. I guess central locking module needs some medicine Where is located, pls?

If you want to test with the bonnet open, try wedging the sensor closed (on my Mk6, it's pushed down by the loop of the catch when the bonnet shuts) — the system shouldn't know the difference.

[Guest]

Try this put your volt meter across the fuse contacts when fuse is still in and see which one is drawing current you will see one will be excessive voltage
You dont have to close the bonnet or doors just the latches will do
But you have to lock the car or it wont go to sleep

[HiTorque]

Try this put your volt meter across the fuse contacts when fuse is still in and see which one is drawing current you will see one will be excessive voltage
You dont have to close the bonnet or doors just the latches will do
But you have to lock the car or it wont go to sleep

I had to cut a wire to bonnet switch as it's NC - opens when bonnet is shut. So now it's "always shut". I did fuse tests with multimeter, so far F16 (steering-J257), F24 (on-board diag J533) and two 40A F47,48 (J519) all together consume more than 0.5A after 2 hours in locked state. I have only Jetta fuse map from November 2004 - I have Golf made early 2005. Also around 100 mA goes through SA6 80A fuse to internal fuse box (SC fuses). The car wasn't hit by lightning strike so I can't figure out why at least four fuses are responsible for it . So now the battery gets disconnected at night and charged (just as a precaution) , it's like having an electric car... I guess have to test again without central locking on. The battery gets charged when I am driving and It's a new one so I hope it will last long in such mode!

[HiTorque]

OK, just tested twice leaving driver door opened - went to sleeping mode under 50mA in less than 20min. Now the question - what is it? Is locking mechanism jamming something or shorting wires in the door? Is it easy to get to locking area inside?

[Transporter]

OK, just tested twice leaving driver door opened - went to sleeping mode under 50mA in less than 20min. Now the question - what is it? Is locking mechanism jamming something or shorting wires in the door? Is it easy to get to locking area inside?

Test the door lock actuators, remove the door trim if you can't get into the wires. That 50mA current sound right and it should be close to that when you fully lock the car. I measured around 15mA within 20minutes after locking.