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Thread: What Ceramic pads would u recommended? - 2011 vRS

  1. #41
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    Thanks Brad. And yeh, does look better to buy in Oz.

  2. #42
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    just picked up the ATE Ceramic pads.excellent service.ordered yesterday arvo. now just got to wait till the end of the month till the DBA Slotted discs arrive at GSL Rallysport.
    cheers
    warrick
    2011 3CC 3.6 V6. 19X8 CADWELL RIMS, K & N FILTER, EXHAUST TIPS,DBA SLOTTED FRONT DISCS,ATE CERAMIC FRONT PADS.

  3. #43
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    Hmmmm

    I've heard a lot of negative comments about RDA rotors (including from workshops I trust)
    Easy to get a wobble out them, especially after giving them a hiding
    They are cheap and if that's your primary focus then that's fine

    I regularly get rotors skimmed as I maintain 3 cars
    2 of these cars have high friction pads that tend to eat into the rotor
    It only costs me $50 to have two rotors skimmed

    Ceramic pads, a lot of variable options
    I put a set of ceramics in and was disappointed, high levels of brown dust
    But they did settle down after ~3,000km - almost no dust at all now - happy (but no good for a track day)
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
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  4. #44
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    The ATE Ceramic keeps your wheels clean, other brands maybe just use the term "ceramic" and don't care much about the cleanliness of your wheels.
    You're right about the RDA discs, they do distort, but even if you're replacing the discs yourself, at the moment you have to get them machined they become more expensive.

  5. #45
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    i agree about the RDA Rotors which is why i'm getting the DBA. i've had a couple of sets of these on other cars with no problems.
    cheers
    warrick
    2011 3CC 3.6 V6. 19X8 CADWELL RIMS, K & N FILTER, EXHAUST TIPS,DBA SLOTTED FRONT DISCS,ATE CERAMIC FRONT PADS.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by warrick View Post
    now just got to wait till the end of the month till the DBA Slotted discs arrive at GSL Rallysport.
    cheers
    warrick
    Quote Originally Posted by Martin View Post
    Hmmmm

    I've heard a lot of negative comments about RDA rotors (including from workshops I trust)
    Easy to get a wobble out them, especially after giving them a hiding
    They are cheap and if that's your primary focus then that's fine

    I regularly get rotors skimmed as I maintain 3 cars
    2 of these cars have high friction pads that tend to eat into the rotor
    It only costs me $50 to have two rotors skimmed
    DBA I'd have. RDA used to be good but appear to be targeting a price bracket rather than a long-lasting quality these days.

    The $99 each T2 slotted at Brakes Direct seem pretty good value for what you get.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad View Post
    RDA used to be good but appear to be targeting a price bracket rather than a long-lasting quality these days.
    had similar experience on my Silvias. 6-10 years ago they were cheap DBA equivalent, now they are just cheap.

  8. #48
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    I bought RDA discs for my GTI, they seem OK (don't track the car) for daily.

    Reason I went for RDA (obviously to save $) is because regardless of how good your discs are, it will need replacing or machining by the time you change your pads anyway.

    Plus they are cheap enough not to worry about machining them which will most likely make at or under the legal limit.
    MY07 Red GTI 3 Door

  9. #49
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    Hmm, not when you have to replace them every 10,000km or so.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Transporter View Post
    Hmm, not when you have to replace them every 10,000km or so.
    Indeed. I've heard too many stories lately of them warping under normal urban driving conditions. It's not much - maybe .010"-.020" but enough to get a bit of pad knock-back & an odd pedal.

    The other thing people don't realise is that the material composition of the rotor will affect the stopping ability & friction co-efficient between the pad & the rotor. This is why back in the 70s, most Euro bikes stopped better than Jap bikes. The Euros generally used CI discs & the Japs used stainless steel as the rusty CI on the non-friction areas was visually unacceptable to the Japanese. The cure was to use CI with a light plating of a non-rusting material (cadmium??) that wore off the friction surfaces in the first few thousand km
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

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