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Thread: upgraded factory sound system??

  1. #11
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    Jul 2011
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    for the audiophile the entire system needs to be removed and replaced, including the head unit which is definitely pretty ordinary .. and like others have said the RS needs lots of noise insulation.

    I was thinking about installing insulation but then decided that I'd rather hear more exhaust noise than less

    As for upgrades, I chose the cheapest option with the most bang per buck - I bought a cheap sub/amp kit from JB and had them install it, and was very happy with the big effect this had on the sound coming out of the door speakers. Granted this is far from perfection but it made a substantial difference regardless.
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  2. #12
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    Jul 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluefrog View Post
    for the audiophile the entire system needs to be removed and replaced, including the head unit which is definitely pretty ordinary .. and like others have said the RS needs lots of noise insulation.

    I was thinking about installing insulation but then decided that I'd rather hear more exhaust noise than less

    As for upgrades, I chose the cheapest option with the most bang per buck - I bought a cheap sub/amp kit from JB and had them install it, and was very happy with the big effect this had on the sound coming out of the door speakers. Granted this is far from perfection but it made a substantial difference regardless.
    The factory head unit doesn't necessarily need to be replaced. If I had the cash for a half decent install, I'd keep the factory unit and connect an Audison BitOne processor to control the system. The stock head unit would only be used to adjust volume, skip tracks etc.

    If you were going to go the whole 9 yards, I'd advise anyone who is keen on music and sound to do the following:

    1. Sound deaden the car - A car is basically a big vibrating tin can on wheels and when it moves it vibrates, which equals noise frequencies which detract from listening to music accurately. Deadening the doors will make a noticeable improvement to clarity.

    2. Upgrade the speakers.

    3. Add amp to power the speakers effectively. No stock head unit regardless of make will allow a speaker to reach its full potential, they just don't put out enough grunt.

    4. Add a sub and another amp to power it for that low-end oomph to really fill out the sound.

    5. Add a decent headunit that has a decent EQ, otherwise go down the path of running a sound processor off your stock head unit and then you can really tweak the sound with the EQ, crossover points, phase, time alignment.

    6. Deep cycle battery and upgraded earthing kit for the car and you're pretty much set (in a perfect world of course).

    God I miss car audio...

  3. #13
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    Dec 2011
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    Newington
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    Had an repuatable installer replace front speakers and drive them with an external amp. Soon as I picked it up and got up the road things did not sound right. After I dug under the passenger seat where the amp is I find he has the L+R RCA's with only the R channel connected to a Y- splitter feeding the L+R input to my amp. So only mono! WTF! The L channel RCA was taped up. Tried connecting this and no output on this channel. mmmm. Called the guy (who co. will remain nameless for now), he started crapping on about the phase of the output from the head unit, and that he had to do this to get any bass. And that he has ordered in some sort of phase shift device to fix it. So he BS'd me at the shop, let me drive away and ordered this componant like he was gonna call me later or something. My arse.

    I said why not take L+R pre-outs from the HU into the amp, no problem. More crap about phasing. So I said I come back for in and sort it out. BTW I am an electrical engineer that has tinkered with Hifi-car stereo for a long time, so none of this is stacking up. To me it sounds like h e's shorted the Front left channel and he's trying a band-aid. Am I missing something re the out-put capability from the HU? It the std Columbus. I would have assumed that there is some sort of iso connector with speaker level or line level outputs, both of which my amp can take.

    any advice gratefully recieved before I get back in there.
    vRS 2011 Race Blue

  4. #14
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    WTF would be my reaction too!!
    Did he wire the speakers out of phase when he had both channels feeding the amp? That's the only reason that the bass would be killed.

    As for willow's list, I would do steps 4 & 5 together using the crossovers to strip out the bass going to the existing speakers, then step 1 if needed and leave it at that.
    Sure, you won't be able to sound off vs the doof-doof crowd (well you could but it'd be just a monotone thump - hang on....) but it will IMMENSELY improve the sound quality for a fairly small outlay and not much effort.
    Resident grumpy old fart
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambo View Post
    Had an repuatable installer replace front speakers and drive them with an external amp. Soon as I picked it up and got up the road things did not sound right. After I dug under the passenger seat where the amp is I find he has the L+R RCA's with only the R channel connected to a Y- splitter feeding the L+R input to my amp. So only mono! WTF! The L channel RCA was taped up. Tried connecting this and no output on this channel. mmmm. Called the guy (who co. will remain nameless for now), he started crapping on about the phase of the output from the head unit, and that he had to do this to get any bass. And that he has ordered in some sort of phase shift device to fix it. So he BS'd me at the shop, let me drive away and ordered this componant like he was gonna call me later or something. My arse.

    I said why not take L+R pre-outs from the HU into the amp, no problem. More crap about phasing. So I said I come back for in and sort it out. BTW I am an electrical engineer that has tinkered with Hifi-car stereo for a long time, so none of this is stacking up. To me it sounds like h e's shorted the Front left channel and he's trying a band-aid. Am I missing something re the out-put capability from the HU? It the std Columbus. I would have assumed that there is some sort of iso connector with speaker level or line level outputs, both of which my amp can take.

    any advice gratefully recieved before I get back in there.
    I've had a bad experience and still hearing about it now long after I've sold my car. Don't have any faith in the so called "professionals" who claim they have been in the field for 15+ years. Its all BS!!!!! Either that, or they picked up really poor habits from their mentors.

  6. #16
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    Nov 2010
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    Sydney
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    Professional installs?

    I had our HU replaced with a Kenwood GPS unit by a so called "reputable" dealer.

    I had to return to get the rear DVD units wired the way that I had asked.
    I also had no satellite reception and very poor radio reception.

    After returning twice with crappy results, and having knowledge of car stereos myself, I fixed the job myself.
    So, the gps antennae was moved to the location recommended by the radio's manufacturer.
    A new fm antennae adapter fixed the reception issue.

    As to what outputs are available on the original HU, the answer is none.
    Output from the radio is via a factory plug which contains the Can Bus wiring and speaker outputs.
    The radio can be used but an adapter plugs have to be used.

    As for a reputable dealer, I believe the only one that i would trust in Sydney would be FHRX Studios in Caringbah.
    fhrxstudios.com.au

    They aren't cheap, but their quality of work is superb.

  7. #17
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    Dec 2011
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    Newington
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    I've had a bit of journey.
    So the ICE guy apparently fitted a "Stinger" LOC (Line Output Convertor), and got me going in Stereo. Hallelujah. After some research it seems this is the only way to get a signal out of the RNS510 as there are no line level outputs.
    Still not sounding right. Out comes my test CD and SPL meter. Strangely LH tweeter is about 8db down. Odd. Took back to ICE guy to check out (thinking he may have set an attenuating jumper on the crossover wrong). He reckons there was a dry/cracked joint in the crossover board. Kudos to him for sorting that out. Though, still disappointed he let a crappy install go out the door without checking it.
    Sounding better but still not right.
    So, I wiggle the switch's for fixed/variable input, and stereo/mono, and hey presto, crystal clear. Have since given them a spray of isopropyl to make sure.
    So, the lesson is to be wary of old ICE components, and installers that are not so thorough.
    vRS 2011 Race Blue

  8. #18
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    Jan 2013
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    Rambo,

    If I'm not mistaken the Columbus head unit can be tweeked via VCDS to enable a line level output via the speaker wires. however I'm not sure whether this is just for the factory amp. I think romaniac has done an ICE upgrade and tried using the LOC but ended up with a digital signal processor.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Camden NSW
    Posts
    1,270
    Thread Starter
    Hearing all those stories brings back bad memories of my own!!
    I also had shonky guys stuff up a system in the past by running both channels in mono etc...
    Idiots.

    So how do we find GOOD places...not just places that say they are good....
    2018 Ralyee Green RS wagon. Fully optioned.
    Previous vehicles:2015 Volvo V60 Polestar (my one detour from VW/Skoda!)
    2013 Platin grey RS wagon / 2012 White Polo GTI / 2009 Black 125 Tiguan

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twin_Dad View Post
    Rambo,

    If I'm not mistaken the Columbus head unit can be tweeked via VCDS to enable a line level output via the speaker wires. however I'm not sure whether this is just for the factory amp. I think romaniac has done an ICE upgrade and tried using the LOC but ended up with a digital signal processor.
    Correct, you can use VCDS to change the outputs to line level. This is how the factory installed amps are able to use the same head unit. Just need to get someone with VCDS to change to the output to 'Volkswagen sound system' under address 37.

    Some screenshots here:
    Volkswagen RNS 510 coding when installing with a factory amplifier | my-gti.com
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