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Thread: Tyre Options

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  1. #1
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    I think you are all playing with your willys. In the dry, in everyday driving, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between any of the "top brand" name tyres if you didn t know what was fitted to the car.(and probably not in the wet either) Its only your preconceived ideas and brand preference which sways your bias.
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  2. #2
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    +1 for Michelin PS3

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  3. #3
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    The toe could be correct, they might be just lazy and not put the effort in to get the wheel straight.

    Sometimes that's the difference between a $60 alignment and $120 one. They spend an extra 30 mins doing it properly and not just line up the lasers to the spec sheet.


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  4. #4
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    Thanks Martin, that makes sense.
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  5. #5
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    Hi all, just wondering if anyone has changed their tyres (17") on a 2014 Ambition Plus wagon? I would like to know if there is any benefit (mainly road noise) to swap out the stock tyres to something like Michelin PS3? Or is there any other recommendation?

    Edit: What tyres does the Ambition Plus Wagon come with? How do the new tyres that you put on compare to the stock tyres? And would it be cheaper to get the dealer to change them before delivery or get them done after? Cheers!
    Last edited by K4neX; 13-06-2014 at 03:48 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by K4neX View Post
    Hi all, just wondering if anyone has changed their tyres (17") on a 2014 Ambition Plus wagon? I would like to know if there is any benefit (mainly road noise) to swap out the stock tyres to something like Michelin PS3? Or is there any other recommendation?

    Edit: What tyres does the Ambition Plus Wagon come with? How do the new tyres that you put on compare to the stock tyres? And would it be cheaper to get the dealer to change them before delivery or get them done after? Cheers!
    If you don't know what it comes with then why would you be considering a change at this early stage.

    Unless it comes with tyres that are absolute mungers I'd do the following first:
    1) Get the wheel alignment checked to ensure it's spot-on. You could even ask them to double check it as part of the PD (they did mine). Ask for a print out to make sure they aren't just nodding their head.
    2) Add some sound deadening to the rear end - in the load area & under the rear seats. It does wonders.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad View Post
    If you don't know what it comes with then why would you be considering a change at this early stage.

    Unless it comes with tyres that are absolute mungers I'd do the following first:
    1) Get the wheel alignment checked to ensure it's spot-on. You could even ask them to double check it as part of the PD (they did mine). Ask for a print out to make sure they aren't just nodding their head.
    2) Add some sound deadening to the rear end - in the load area & under the rear seats. It does wonders.
    Thanks for the tips.

    I am asking based on my previous experience, the two times I bought a new car, they came with ok tyres. Only when they needed to be replace and found that the new tyres that I put on were quieter and felt better on the road.

  8. #8
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    If the MK3 is like the MK2 the tyres won't be bad. The 16" on my Elegance came in 3 brands. The worst was a Bridgestone touring tyre, There was something reasonable in the middle (can't remember) & the best (IMO) was the Conti CSC2. You couldn't have gone wrong with any of them.

    edit: new tyres will always be quieter than old worn out tyres
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  9. #9
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    Total toe was +0.7mm & now it's +1.1

    Front Camber isn't easily adjustable on the front so how did they change it? Ideally, you should have about 0.25 - 0.5 more negative on the LHS than the RHS so it walks up the camber of the road. They either need to do some finessing with the lower ball joints or shift the subframe over a fraction to the left.

    Front Castor isn't adjustable. Why has it changed on the LHS? Again, you want a fraction more castor (up to 1 degree) on the L than the right to compensate for road camber. I have no idea how to tweak this on an Octavia - maybe the subframe again? I'd also be looking at the rear console bushes on the lower control arms to see if they are a bit tired.

    Rear camber & toe are OK unless you are getting saw-toothing on the rear - then you'd pull the camber a bit more towards -1.

    Some of the changes from before to after are so minute I'd be wondering if the tyre pressures are the same or if there was more/less fuel or cargo. I'd also be wondering about when the machine was last calibrated.

    I haven't got time to look back through the thread - where'd you get it done again? If your at Cherrybrook then maybe try Wholesale Suspension at Penriff.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  10. #10
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    Are front camber/castor adjustable with the supaloy LCAs with adjustable lower ball joints?

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