Skoda RS replacement tyres - interesting

[brad]

I asked someone who used them about a month back, they were told by the tirerack guy that freight is considered separate and that the freight was increased to around $300 AUD in the end. The PE2s come in around $210 AUD at the moment, so on their own they would be under $1k but with freight would be $1140. Would double freight really be cheaper, GST would be not much more than $100 but the duty crap is always hard to figure.

If you are really serious I'll ask my mate that just brought in some PS2s for his 325i m-sport. He did 2x2. I think you are right, freight isn't counted. IIRC $180 for 2 or $300 for 4

[Antiplastix]

Like "Brad" I worked in the tyre industry 20 odd years ago and had a loathing for Dunlops. I have just rotated my Dunlop SP sport Maxx s at 8k kms. and they are wearing perfectly flat front and rear with no feathering or scalloping. (Maybe German Dunlops are better than Aussie Dunlops). The tyres that came off the front are half worn so I m not expecting great mileage from them. Maybe I m biased but the last 3 sets of tyres I ve bought have been Toyos and will replace the Dunlops with them again. The new TEO s are the go for anyone wanting decent mileage.
Passenger Car Size List

[dazag]

just rotated mine front to rear and vice versa. Of note the left hand side is wearing ever so slightly quicker then the right, and it looks like it's only the left rear that has saw toothed on the inner edge, so I'm thinking there could be a little misalignment there.

[dodgey]

Mine were Dunlop Sport SP01A and they were pulled off the car at around 7,500kms, and stored for a year. They came back after that, (rotated) and then were run for another 7,500kms, before rotated again, however, it still happened It was fine and happened rather suddenly. I noticed a while after the second rotation. (Was fine then) Rotation was front to rear...

I switched to Adrenalins on my old GTI and they were fine. I didn't have the car for long enough to do any major driving with them.

[zach]

Like "Brad" I worked in the tyre industry 20 odd years ago and had a loathing for Dunlops. I have just rotated my Dunlop SP sport Maxx s at 8k kms. and they are wearing perfectly flat front and rear with no feathering or scalloping. (Maybe German Dunlops are better than Aussie Dunlops). The tyres that came off the front are half worn so I m not expecting great mileage from them. Maybe I m biased but the last 3 sets of tyres I ve bought have been Toyos and will replace the Dunlops with them again. The new TEO s are the go for anyone wanting decent mileage.
Passenger Car Size List

Can vouch for the TEOs

[brad]

Maybe I m biased but the last 3 sets of tyres I ve bought have been Toyos and will replace the Dunlops with them again. The new TEO s are the go for anyone wanting decent mileage.

I was at an independant for 12 months & he was a Dunlop Super Dealer - and we sold Toyos like crazy men . I don't like T1-R (too unpredictable) but have heard good reports on the R1-R.
TEO would be a bit touring focussed wouldn't it?
I have a theory that if you fit a touring / hard compound tyre to a "sporty" car that is driven with purpose, that they won't get enough grip & the wheelspin will cause them too wear out quicker than a performance/soft compound tyre that maintains grip more often. I've seen it plenty of times where a TW 150 tyre lasts longer on the same car than a TW300 tyre.

[Antiplastix]

Never thought of it that way, but 95 % of my driving is everyday commuting and country drives and the rest is spirited fangs. I m willing to sacrifice a bit of grip for longevity and quitness ( the tyre noise is annoying in the wagon ). I certainly would nt be using them for track days etc. Not sure they are available in a 225 anyway.

[zach]

25% at Goodyear stores atm

[Diesel_vert]

I have a theory that if you fit a touring / hard compound tyre to a "sporty" car that is driven with purpose, that they won't get enough grip & the wheelspin will cause them too wear out quicker than a performance/soft compound tyre that maintains grip more often.

I also think that a tyre which has lots of sipes to enhance noise absorption and/or disperse large amounts of water also has the disadvantage of increased block movement. Combine that with the sidewall flex of higher profiles, this generates excessive heat, leading to faster tyre degradation and eventually loss of grip (during aggressive cornering, mind you). But for the most part, this tends to be cancelled out by the use of harder compounds in most higher profile tyres.

I've seen it plenty of times where a TW 150 tyre lasts longer on the same car than a TW300 tyre.

This is because treadwear ratings are only relative within a single manufacturer's range of tyres, as it's actually up to them to interpret and determine the rating. So what Continental thinks how long a 220-rated tyre should last might differ from what Bridgestone or Michelin think how long a 220-rated tyre should last, etc. (source - Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG) Standards).

Also, wear can decrease if you up the load index e.g. choosing a XL tyre, but can increase as you up the speed index, all things being equal.

[Antiplastix]

Its not the amount of "sipes" that contribute to noise, its the uniform shape and size. By varying the shape and size you break up the resonance humm.