Skoda Octavia Service Costs Adelaide

[Quokkacs]

Hi All,

Considering purchasing a Skoda Octavia 1Z MY12 90TSI DSG Wagon. I'm a courier so my mileage is quite high. 45 to 50000km a year. So fuel and servicing costs are paramount. Looking for advice on service costs and where in Adelaide one would be recommended to service their vehicle. My current mechanic is good and guess I could stay with him unless there is any special that only Skoda/VW mech's could deal with. Ie the DSG trans. Any help/thoughts appreciated. Thanks

[Mysticality]

Could be worth looking at the 77TDI manual!!
My manual servicing costs are lower than Subaru's

EDIT: I bought my car in Dec 2011, and have fun with it. Drive it hard, mod it, etc. She's *just* (tonight) ticked over 79,000km. Only thing I've had to replace (apart from oil/belts of course - as part of the services) in general wear and tear is the tyres.
Brake pads are still at 8mm front, 10mm rear... And thats after a day at the track. (Was at 10mm/10mm before that >.<)

[code618]

German Auto, edwardston

VAG specialists, very knowledgable and good guys.
Serviced my RS there for a few years

[K1W1]

Being a European car brakes are what will kill you. You will most likely need to budget for one brake and rotor set replacement per year with that sort of mileage as a courier vehicle and that will add greatly to the overall costs.

[Diesel_vert]

Hi All,

Considering purchasing a Skoda Octavia 1Z MY12 90TSI DSG Wagon. I'm a courier so my mileage is quite high. 45 to 50000km a year. So fuel and servicing costs are paramount. Looking for advice on service costs and where in Adelaide one would be recommended to service their vehicle. My current mechanic is good and guess I could stay with him unless there is any special that only Skoda/VW mech's could deal with. Ie the DSG trans. Any help/thoughts appreciated. Thanks

The 7-speed DSG is maintenance-free, so the mechanic doesn't need to touch it.

Can't think of anything else at the moment that would require special attention in terms of routine servicing.

Could be worth looking at the 77TDI manual!!

The particulate filter (DPF) will need replacing (or cleaning) once it clogs up with ash which has potential to eat significantly into any savings.

Being a European car brakes are what will kill you. You will most likely need to budget for one brake and rotor set replacement per year with that sort of mileage as a courier vehicle and that will add greatly to the overall costs.

Once he has worn out the original pads and discs, he could replace them with ATE ceramic pads and ATE discs (or aftermarket equivalent).

[K1W1]

Once he has worn out the original pads and discs, he could replace them with ATE ceramic pads and ATE discs (or aftermarket equivalent).

The OEM ones should go 50k and these appear to only be warrantied for the same period so what would be the advantage? I assume that these are probably more expensive than the OEM ones.

[zach]

my service mgr suggested I would get at least 100k from my pads and discs. plenty of meat left at my 45k service. he said skoda pads/discs are much bett\er than other euro makes. my bros peugeot is approx every 40k for set of pads/discs

[andymarc]

Volksfactory at Holden Hill.
He is very thorough, Price was a fraction of what Solitaire charge.

If i was still in Adelaide id take it there for sure!
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[brad]

The OEM ones should go 50k and these appear to only be warrantied for the same period so what would be the advantage? I assume that these are probably more expensive than the OEM ones.

Warranty period is not an accurate indicator of service life.

I'd also recomend aftermarket once the factory fitted pads / rotors have used up their service life. Lots of quality choices out there, most costing less than the product available from the factory spares department.

[Diesel_vert]

The OEM ones should go 50k and these appear to only be warrantied for the same period so what would be the advantage? I assume that these are probably more expensive than the OEM ones.

The 50k/3yr warranty is a nice thought, but of little relevance to someone who does 50k a year.

Rather, the most important thing is that they will (in all probability) last longer than the OE brakes, irrespective of how the car is driven.

If the car does 50k on OE, then the ATE ceramics will probably do 75k-100k.
If the car does 75k on OE, then the ATE ceramics will probably do 130k-150k.
If the car does 100k on OE, then the ATE ceramics will probably do 150k-200k.

The figures are arbitrary, but you get the picture.