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Thread: Running in advice

  1. #11
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    The car manual gives quite specific instructions regarding a gradually increasing workload over the first 1000/1500 km.
    The advantages are that if there are problems during this period then there should not be any issues regarding warranty claims and the secondary running in requirements for both the tyres and brakes will be met by normal driving techniques.

    The counter argument of a flogging the engine also has its supporters, the following link offers an explanation: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power .

    Being a cautious type I tend to follow the manual but I am intrigued enough to believe 'flogging' may have some merit.
    After all the 24 hour class records set by Mazda and Vauxhall involved taking brand new standard diesel cars from the assembly line to the race track and letting teams go full bore for 24 hours at speeds well over 120 mph with no obvious issues.

    It would be great if an independent laboratory took two identical cars and established which method is superior

  2. #12
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    I have always used the method of run it in fast and it will always be fast but back in those days we had no evidence to support what we did and I don't know where we got the idea from. The diesel motor in my car was not run in as per Skoda's book of rules and uses no oil and never has but each to his own and I am only relating my experiences over the years. It has always been a contentious issue but 50 years ago motors were badly built, clearances varied etc and they didn't last long. These days they are precision built and last 500,000 km and most importantly the oils are way way better to the extent that oil changes could be halved. We were changing oil in trucks at longer intervals than recommended and after testing we found the oil was still serviceable so we stretched it further, out to 75,000 and the only reason they got serviced then was to do a mechanical check. Some manufacturers used to put a different oil in the motor for the initial period then change it but VW do not even have the 1000 km service these days which maybe a bit much as it was really a mechanical health check on the car but anything to save money.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerrycan View Post
    The car manual gives quite specific instructions regarding a gradually increasing workload over the first 1000/1500 km.
    The advantages are that if there are problems during this period then there should not be any issues regarding warranty claims and the secondary running in requirements for both the tyres and brakes will be met by normal driving techniques.

    The counter argument of a flogging the engine also has its supporters, the following link offers an explanation: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power .

    Being a cautious type I tend to follow the manual but I am intrigued enough to believe 'flogging' may have some merit.
    After all the 24 hour class records set by Mazda and Vauxhall involved taking brand new standard diesel cars from the assembly line to the race track and letting teams go full bore for 24 hours at speeds well over 120 mph with no obvious issues.

    It would be great if an independent laboratory took two identical cars and established which method is superior
    I think Gerrycan sums it up very nicely, myself however took the 'drive it firm' approach, I am not redlining the car yet (at 2500kms), but I do rev it(sometimes up to 6k) and engine brake when ever possible.

  4. #14
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    Its an interesting debate and always causes lively discussion. I worked as a fleet supervisor for a large government corporation and had a fleet of trucks as well as delivery vans to supervise. We never ran in any vehicle and the drivers did their best to see if they could break them. They were driven flat out from day one, all diesels and every one of them performed flawlessly. My experience over the years is to disregard running in and just drive it normally but initially to give the motor at least one hard session. Trucks especially never get run in and give no issues, in fact I am not sure I have ever seen any break in advice for a truck now I come to think about it. I might have it wrong but that is my experience for what that is worth which is most probably not much.

  5. #15
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    The idea of flogging the engine in the article mentioned by Gerryvan is in relation to rebuilt motorcycle engines.
    the idea of flogging the engine is to seat the piston rings in. with cars the idea is to get the car warmed up quickly then on the road get upto 60km per hour in top gear (or what ever gear is 1:1 ratio) and floor it until the car gets to 80km and back off the gas till the car slows to 60 and then repeat several times. The thought is this will seat the rings in so they seal, the. Drive normally varying the speed and not letting the engine idle for too long, slowly increasing the load. Then change the oil not long after. But this is the thought for rebuilt engines.
    as the guy in that article states there is a small window of opportunity to seat the rings in, which in modern cars will have been done in the factory.

    personally I would follow the manual then if it has issues then you could make a claim on the warranty.

    every new car I have owned I have followed the recommended way but at the first inspection I always insist that they change the oil and filter. Doing this I have had cars reach 300,000km and not use oil.

    any way that's my 2c worth.

  6. #16
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    the 60-80 thing - in an Octavia you'd do that in 2nd or 3rd. 5th or 6th would lug the engine.

    I used to buy big stationary diesels (V16 & V24 compressors). Same deal as Ozko - they'd put them out on the line after acceptance testing and run them under load for an 8 - 16 hour shift.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  7. #17
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    It needs to be 100% up to temp (not just the gauge...) but drive it hard enough to bed the rings with good pressure behind
    this is exactly what the manufactures do, I remember doing a tour of Ford in 1987 and have seen mega factories (just like everyone else) and it is good enough for every one from Tata to Ferrari

    Dont use max revs but max load, although remember lugging the motor will damage the bearings (as opposed to the rings)

  8. #18
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    Jun 2014
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    I think the Octavia RS is similar to my Golf GTi engine. I took delivery on 15th and asked 2 different people in the dealership (sales and service guys) about running the car in. Both said go for it straight away (hence getting the 2nd opinion) as the car is delivered already run in. Spent Saturday going for a run through the Dandenong hills here in Melbourne slowly working up to 5500-6000 rpm during the trip. Sod waiting a couple of thousand km, had the time of my life!
    Will let you know if this has been detrimental further down the track but intend to keep loading the car on some weekend day trips in between runs to work during the week.
    2007 Polo GTi std
    1991 Nissan Pulsar GTi-R
    2007 Fiesta ST150 mountune kit

  9. #19
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    This is what I did in my rebuilt EP71 engine.
    Never had a problem & went like stink!
    Most will disagree with the article but I thought Id have a go & see what I ended up with.
    All good!


    Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

  10. #20
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    Sep 2009
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    Stirling, SA
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    Thread Starter

    Seems like the conclusion is to drive it normally... thanks guys.

    As it turns out the question of whether running in on a road trip was a moot point... I leave Saturday and car is only arriving for PD today or tomorrow. Dealer has lent me a demonstrator Scout 135TDI for the ~2000km road trip

    Nick
    2007 Golf 2.0 TDI Comfortline DSG/ESP
    MY15.5 Octavia RS Wagon 135TDI, Race Blue, 18" Black Pack, Tech Pack, Comfort Pack, Auto Tailgate, Panoramic Sunroof

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