I have the 98duro torque arm insert in my heavy, clunky diesel and after it finally settled in (2000km(?) or about 8 days) its hardly noticible.
It has a clunk when you turn the key, and its got rather bad reverb when reversing at 800-1,200rpm with load (i.e. up hill) but otherwise its fantastic and the front feels 100% perfectly planted!
Although its worth noting I'm TDI manual, not TSI DSG...
2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
Not including hers...
better tyres are a good start, and its not ALL a waste. the car is certainly quicker in the mid range even with stock everything else.
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
With regards to the Supaloy control arms, I note that APR have them for $750 but this includes the adjustable ball joints. Can someone please advise what advantages these adjustable ball joints provide? Martin did you get them?
From the horses (Guy Harding's) mouth
SuperPro Supaloy Control Arms
I have personally been involved in the development of these arms from day 1, so might be able to add a bit of insight?
The arms are imported, they are an OE casting & they come in the "bright" coated finish, they are not polished at all.
The bushes are cast / poured into the arms in Moorooka, Brisbane.
The design of the rear bushes is similar to other "made in Asia" Gold & Yellow "Anti Lift Kits", they add approximately 1.5 degrees of static castor.
Unlike the "Anti Lift Kits" listed above, we don't have bushing failure due to the high lateral forces splitting the rear bush. There were multiple design changes to overcome this, and all tested on our APR Australia cars on the track & street. An example of the testing is some versions of "Anti Lift Kits" wouldn't last 20 laps of QLD Raceway with braking forces of the National Circuit. They have also failed on VAG cars competing in Targa Tasmania.
There are now also adjustable ball joints that work specifically with these arms that allow us to achieve an extra 1.5 degrees of negative camber.
These ball joints are included in the Harding Performance version of the arms (RR $750).
Summary:
They are an OEM VW / Audi arm, they are not "polished"
They do have "Anti Lift" bushes in the rear
They do have harder bushes in them so you may experience different noise & vibration to stock arms
They have harder bushes in them, so you do get better feedback & response.
Like all suspension changes, a good wheel alignment is critical, you can throw all the suspension parts you like at a car, and be let down badly by the wheel alignment.
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
Fitted up my whiteline rear bar to the rs wagon and while visually it looks like the rear has come up a few mm (don't know how it can do that?) it really changed the car for me, a lot flatter around the corners and the steering feels sharper as well, it actually feels more like our mk6 gti we had. Now just to fit my eibach springs when they arrive, I'll have another set for sale as well if anyone is keen.
Thanks Brad.
Yeah its a bit weird, the rear definetely looked a bit lower than the front beforehand and now the gap looks the same as the front, my shocks are standard factory items and the car is only 2000kms old.
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