RS Eibach lowering springs (family wagon)

[candy_wagon]

darkshadow & mmmracer - that sounds great.

i've been contemplating eibachs lately and your positive experience is helping me make the decision. although i've got a 90tsi so I imagine the chassis will sit lower (or look lower anyway) because i've got puny wheels.

Cbay, I think you will find that you will get the full quoted 35mm drop on s 90tsi because your chassis sits 15mm higher than the VRS. I'm considering these springs too but after plenty of research I am quite tempted by H&R springs with the same drop. I have decided against dropping mine any lower than that.

[MrGadget]

Seems like a bit of mixed comments here. Where would one purchase these springs from? Getting them fitted isn't an issue as a family member is a mechanic.

[brad]

I got my Eibachs off the forum (Brand new in box) & Konis from ECS tuning.

If you were considering height adjustable coilovers then Golf units fit (these pop up on the forums regularly too). Keep in mind that the smaller engined Golfs/Octavias have a 50mm strut & the larger a 55mm.

There was a good thread posted the other day about suspension mods / different springs & shocks for Octavia. Can't find it now.

[mmmRacer]

Got my springs direct from Eibach Australia. Very easy to deal with.

[fred27]

It is not the spring alone that affects the ride. Important to remember that the spring needs to be matched to the shock. I'm using the Eibach pro (springs and shock kit bought from Eibach Australia). Lower, good handling and supple ride.

[Tigger]

Yes Eibach Aust were really great to deal with!
Ordered one day...delivered the next.

Items are of a very high quality and fitment was straightforward for someone who knows what they are doing....

[MountainBikeMike]

Ah fek. So I'm using a brand new Kinchrome 7mm allen wrench with a long lever attached to it to get the 21mm bolt off. Nek minnit:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kip85q1xoz...2016.07.20.jpg

Cant see it, but the 7mm hole pulled through, so now I cant turn it. Where do I go from here?

I believe that by holding the inner shaft with a proper sized clamp you can still get it off and back on again. I will probably take it to my mechanic to sort out and hope it doesn't happen to the other side.. Wasted a good 4 hours today, albeit without a strut speader it took an hour to remove just the bottom of the damper.

I guess worst case: time to upgrade dampers..

One more thing, 2 of the 3 13mm bolts holding the top of the strut are twisting inside the rubber casing, preventing me from tightening them hard. I will loctite them, but is this still unsafe?

[brad]

I usually undo / tighten the strut nut with a rattle gun & then double check the tightness by hand. Rinse & repeat once it's installed in the car if you can access it. It's probably not kosher for most people but that's how I've always done it for the ~500 strut changes I've done.

I've never come across the issue of the studs turning in any car. The studs should be a press fit into the top bearing mount housing thingy. The base of the stud will be knurled to deform into the hole. I have no idea what rubber bit you are referring to.

If you've made the clearance between the stud & the housing thingy a bit loose & can't glue it or tack weld it then why not put your 13mm ring on the nut & then grab the thread of the stud with some vice grips.

Alternatively, would a washer under the nut help?

Looking at your photo again... Why are the outer mount holes threaded like that & why have you pulled the studs out?

If you can't get them tight then you'll get a rattle - keep in mind that the torque isn't huge. It's like put your finger in the end of a 6" ring and curl your fingers hard tight. (it's 15Nm + a quarter of a turn)

The big nut is 60Nm