Oil Change & Lifting Points

[Fourwinds]

BottomScrather
Thanks, you have saved me some $ regarding the puck. Looks I am off to Bunnings for some wood. Been awhile since I put the router to use

Cheers Fred

[jordan_robinson_1990]

Its safe to jack your car on the sill there should be a small triange imprint on the sill thats the locating bit of were to jack if this is not there look along the sill and there will be 2 points that are different to rest if sill there you should jack use a block of wood so that it doesnt damage the sealent in any way and as of jack stands i allways put them on the lower arm towards the back on the front kind of looks like a upside down bridge and if the car has axel rear safe to just pop one on the axel if not and has irs pop one under were the spring sits theres a hole make sure you have the stand sitting in there shouldnt move


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[MountainBikeMike]

Whats the go if I've been jacking a foot behind the front wheel and a foot infront of the rear wheel and all of the sill has ended up bent to ****??? My mechanic mentioned it and said its bad, but didn't have the time to explain

[Fourwinds]

Whats the go if I've been jacking a foot behind the front wheel and a foot infront of the rear wheel and all of the sill has ended up bent to ****??? My mechanic mentioned it and said its bad, but didn't have the time to explain

My understanding is bending the sill may crack the sealant and spot weld, and lead to crevice corrosion of the chassis/sub frame.

If a puncture occurs you will not be able to safely use the supplied jack (widow maker) as it locks over the sill to lift the vehicle.

You can bank on "Murphy's Law" coming into play, so I would carry a puncture repair kit in the boot until the sill is repaired.

Just my tuppence worth, I leave it to the experts to explain it better.


Fred

[BottomScratcher]

In addition to what Fred said it helps to uderstand how the cars are constructed. Disclaimer - I'm no expert. What I do know is that VW uses a modular platform of chassis/frame construction. My Skoda uses the A5 platform, which is the same frame for most mid-size VAG cars, SUV's, and vans (AUDI A3, VW Golf VI, Skoda Occy II, VW Caddy, SKoda Yeti, VW Tiguan, the VW Beetle, a couple of SEATS, and a heap of others.

It's my understanding that the basic frame common to so many VAG vehicles is just that, a frame. It's high strength, box section steel along the sides (sills), which is why that's the recommended jacking points, but what gives the car its overall structural integrity is the laser welded panels attached to the frame. I don't think flattened sills are a major issue except as Fred said until you go to use your factory jack. It's my thinking that any break in the sill welds reduces that overall structural integrity, and that is an issue. In the old days sill panels were just that, panels, and in my experience were one of the first parts of a car to start rusting out. If a sill was dinged/rusted it'd be cut out and replaced. Go over a gutter and drop one of our cars onto it, and you'll be up for $$$.

[Transporter]

You would have to be pretty stupid to flatten your sill panels if you use your whatever jack you have, as long as you protect it by placing a wooden or rubber block between the jack and the sill panel. I use 2 trolley jacks when jacking the cars up and in 20 years in business I can tell you that it takes more than 10 years before the car body (any brand) gets weak and the sill panel is unreliable for jacking up.

Certainly I'm yet to see 1-10 years VAG car with the sill panels that aren't fit for jacking up.

You're worried about the problem that doesn't exist yet.

[brad]

don't drive under severe driving conditions

^^^^this is the important one.