There was all sorts of manufacturer BS about their "new" tyres a while back. The PS2 and Good Year Eagle F1 Asymetric just to name a couple were good tyres that did not meet the then newly introduced EU standards with regard to the exposure of plant workers to carcogenic gases given off during the manunufaturing process, so the "new" Asymetric2 and the PS3 are basically the same tyres as their predecessors made to the new EU standards.
I'm still unconvinced as to the benefit, or not, of ALK's, but whatever floats your boat. I don't know if you've had an alignment since you bought your car, but our cars are notorious for being landed here ex-factory with too much positve rear camber, and too much toe out on the fronts. Because I was running the recommended pressures for too long prior to getting a good alignment done is mainly why I had to bin the Conti Contact2's. I think it was more like 37K than the 32K I mentioned earlier. The tread centres and insides were OK, but the outer shoulders were scrubbed out big time.
Point is that when getting a precision alignment a good tech who can do more than just set it up to what the spec sheet says, which is what most places do, is the key to the "precision" bit. A good tech will ask what pressures you run, "read" your tyre wear then tell you why your tyres are wearing the way they are and what he can do to correct it to get maximum benefit and wear out of your new expensive rubber - all before the car goes on the hoist. It may not be convenient for you location wise, but Spinning Wheels at Waterloo has just such a guy working there. The pricing is very reasonable. My last one was $119, which is standard for checking and straightforward corrections. The more corrections that need doing then the more the cost, but unless there is a major issue, one set of corrections should see you done. I won't take my car anywhere else, and I live about 5 minutes away from Heasman's.
Good advice. I'm prepared to travel for quality work, thanks for the tip.
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2011 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI DSG wagon|Revo Stage 1|Race Blue|Leather|Dynamic Xenons w 6000K|9w7 BT|THA475 Amp+active sub|Whiteline ALK|RVC|
2009 R36 wagon|Biscay Blue|RVC|Tailgate|ECU and DSG tune|LED DRL/Indicators|3D colour cluster|Quad LED tail rings|Climatronics upgrade|Dynaudio retrofit|B7 RLine Flat Steering Wheel|3AA CCM|TPMS Direct|B7 Adaptive Cruise with Front Assist|Discover Media retrofit|PLA 2.0|Lane Assist|BCM retrofit|High Beam Assist|DQ500
Why not go the other way and consider stretching a 215/40 tyre on your 7.5" rim? Very small stretch. 215/40s are pretty reasonably priced. You can get kumho ku31s in that size for less than $200/corner. The ku31s are a fantastic grip tyre but they are a bit noisy and you'd be lucky to get more than 25,000kms out of a set.
Originally Posted by MightyCarMods
-| "Laura" - 2001 Bora 4-motion (now sold) |-
A 215/40 R18 89Y XL tyre will fit on a 7.5 J wheel quite comfortably (approved wheel widths are 7.0 J to 8.5 J).
However, fitting such a tyre on an Octavia will render the vehicle unroadworthy because of the load index (unless the vehicle manufacturer has approved that particular fitment).
Originally Posted by MightyCarMods
-| "Laura" - 2001 Bora 4-motion (now sold) |-
On a FWD vehicle, you'd at least have to consider its front GAWR (gross axle weight rating, i.e. the maximum permissible axle load) and the combined maximum load capacity of the tyres fitted on said axle.
A load index of 89 equates to a maximum load capacity of 580 kg per tyre, which is 1160 kg per axle.
If there is a risk of overloading the tyres, you may also have to increase the original tyre inflation pressures (which are only meant for the original tyres) to compensate for the reduction in load capacity of the new tyres, as load capacity (up to its maximum) is proportional to inflation pressure.
Probably something to do with safety margins.
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