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Thread: MountainBikeMike's Skodaru

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad View Post
    Can you not make a little tab to go from the original mount to the new pipe mount.

    I love your posts Mike, your car reminds me of teh Beverly Hillbilly's truck (not sure why)
    LOL had to look that up. Wtf? :p

    I really didn't want to weld on to the car as this might have been temporary. Im going to stick with it a while longer, especially now as the self tapper is about the only thing stopping it from rotating... Its a very ****ty job. The problem is even if I had have waited till the exhaust shops were open, is that there is only a 1cm flange on the muffler side... band clamps need more than that, so I made this band clamp out of sheet metal that slides over itself and tightens, and also put a screw in each end. Silly but it worked
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  2. #102
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    hey mate, I think you have lost a copper washer from that fuel pump. Afaik vw have a part number for this, I'll dig it out and post back on here. As always, nice modding...

  3. #103
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    Winning!
    2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
    1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
    1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
    Not including hers...

  4. #104
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  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by MountainBikeMike View Post

    Beverly Hillbilly's truck is full of innovation

    I mean in this photo. Make a flat plate with 2 holes. Bolt it to the mount point on the block & then nut/bolt it to the bracket on the pipe - something like that. The bracket looks close to the oil filter so you might want to reverse the twist that appears to be there. Grab it with a couple of shifters to take the load off the weld as it will probably snap if you try & twist against the weld.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad View Post
    I mean in this photo. Make a flat plate with 2 holes. Bolt it to the mount point on the block & then nut/bolt it to the bracket on the pipe - something like that. The bracket looks close to the oil filter so you might want to reverse the twist that appears to be there. Grab it with a couple of shifters to take the load off the weld as it will probably snap if you try & twist against the weld.
    Good idea! Realistically though, I should be going somewhere to buy a longer silicone hose for the inlet manifold to charge pipe connection. This will allow me to shift the entire charge pipe over to the right in the pic, meaning that silicone tube is smoother (with less chance of an air leak), and the bottom silicon tube that goes to the intercooler will be less stretched. At the moment you can't see it, but it gets really narrow just after the new charge pipe.

    After thinking about that last bit and having done the dyno today, I really think that may have caused a severe restriction . Where is the best place to buy those short 45 degree-ish silicone hoses for the inlet manifold?

    Quote Originally Posted by guile View Post
    Mate, legend. This confirmed what I thought would be the only cure. Will sort this out tomorrow!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mysticality View Post
    It arrived? Awesome.

    Pics when done
    The tip is almost identical to the existing vRS tip, just larger and meaner
    As requested:



    It's a little sh17ty from phone recording, but I'll do a better one one day.
    Last edited by MountainBikeMike; 10-02-2014 at 12:00 AM.
    www.TheRapidWrench.Melbourne
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  7. #107
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    Today I hit up the HPF Dyno Day in Dandenong. It was an awesome morning with a dj, amazing rides (some so exotic), free red bull, snags, and the dyno's.




    My first time ever doing a dyno


    Here she goes.


    Make some noise!



    Sigh... Not really anything near what I was hoping for, even after dropping my expectations with the heat and all. I noticed that the air fuel ratio was really messed at some points, and also I was gaining a degree in the inlet... Not too bad I guess. I definately need to do a carbon clean after this, remove the whole manifold etc. Also will have to fully fix the hpfp leak, and fix the kinked intercooler charge pipe hose. There is also a bad hesitation happening in 2nd sometimes at WOT. Seems like a boost leak

    ... Better luck next time.
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  8. #108
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    How did you end up with less than stock kw?
    I thought you were on a BlueFin stage 1?
    2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
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  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin View Post
    How did you end up with less than stock kw?
    I thought you were on a BlueFin stage 1?
    It's measured at the wheels, not the flywheel. There's a significant drivetrain loss when going on a Dyno. To put it in perspective a GIAC Stage 1+ Mk5 GTI made 146atw but would've had around 190 at the flywheel. Plus, every Dyno is different and as posted above, Mike is having issues with the car since the Fuel Pump.

  10. #110
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    mike
    rather than remove the inlet, have you thought of doing a "steam clean" of the inlet via the air temp sensor port using a garden sprayer with water or water/meth or water/white spirits etc? It's worth a try.

    I've looked for a youtube link but can't find one.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

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