You are lucky that you managed to get to 60k kms on those original(?) rotors.....Our Pug 307 HDi is on it's 4th set....at 93k kms.
The price is a bit steep. If they fit new ones, no machining is required. Best to fit new pads at the same time also.
Just had our TDi wagon in for it's 60k service, $990 (ouch), service report looks like it was typed by a pre-schooler but the car is running oh so smoothly.
The service guy advised we should book in soon to have new front rotors and pads $620, machine rear discs and new pads $390 installed....
so, how long should rotor last? Is the quote reasonable?
You are lucky that you managed to get to 60k kms on those original(?) rotors.....Our Pug 307 HDi is on it's 4th set....at 93k kms.
The price is a bit steep. If they fit new ones, no machining is required. Best to fit new pads at the same time also.
MK6 MY10 Golf GTI, 5dr Manual, Carbon Steel, Detroits, Tint
T6 MY06 Peugeot 307 HDi Touring, Manual, Iron Grey, Tint
Depends entirely on how and where you drive. On one of my Land Rovers I was going through genuine front rotors every 20k (then I fitted non genuine and they lasted about 100k) on our BMW's rotors have typically been replaced around 50-60k.
The rule of thumb is two sets of pads for one pair of rotors.
I checked my front rotors recently and I reckon at this stage I'd be surprised if they need replacing at the 60k service I reckon they will probably get to 75k or thereabouts.
Last edited by K1W1; 12-08-2011 at 08:31 AM.
Replaced my front pads @ 60k & machined rotors
Just recently changed all 4 rotors/pads @ 90k
(I do track my car for arguments sake)
.:R32 | GIAC | HALDEX II | MILLTEK | BMC | WHITELINE | A-ROTORS | HAWK
Octavia has quite durable brakes compared to some other VAG models. I wouldn't machine the discs.
Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
Pad/rotor wear depends entirely on driver/driving conditions. My rotors are barely lipped & my pads have 7mm friction material left on them at 78,000km. If my wife drove the car, she'd be onto her 3rd set of pads by now because (a) she doesn't look up the road far enough & (b)she drives in stop/start traffic all the time.
60,000km changeover isn't unusual though....
I agree with Transporter. The European discs don't take well to having mass removed via machining. You either bung the new pads onto worn discs & let the pad wear into the disc profile (which means reduced braking performance until it beds properly) or replace the discs.
I think aftermarket pads & rotors are the direction to go. Generally cheaper, longer lasting & good pads will produce less dust.
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
Not always brad and not on every car. I replaced quite a few front pads on new Mitsubishi Tritons at only 17,000km
But, it's truth that you can more than double the life of the pads, if you know how to brake (slow down the car effectively).
Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
I'm surprised that rotors are going so quickly. In my p-plater days I managed to get through two gear boxes and one diff on an old rwd corolla and it still had original rotors up front (drums on the back) when we sold the car with 240k on the clock. It was in the family from new so I thats how I know the rotors were never replaced, but were machined twice. Pads were replaced more often but I refused machining at each replacement as I decided it was just a ruse to pocket money. My point being that I used the middle pedal as hard as the right pedal and yet the rotors lasted the life of the poor car.
Europeans seem to have a philosophy of using soft metal in rotors - even back when i was on the spanners. I have no idea why - anti-squeal / good bite when cold?
The Japanese tended to use a harder metal. The Toyotas of the RWD era were pretty durable for most users.
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
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