Shouldn't post selfies
Wow, Mike. Wow.
XD
2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
Not including hers...
Shouldn't post selfies
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
not picking a fight with you martin, but I still rekon the GFB addon is better than say this Forge item.
this pretty much converts it to a vacuum BOV, and inline with your valve speed (not disagreeing) then this would be even slower (IMO) and is like going backwards in technology.
Home Page ES#1832057 2.0T Diverter Valve - FMDVFSITV
But I agree there is zero performance increase if your factory one is ok. however, the spring tension on it was pretty weak.
It's all good, everybody is entitled to their view
I agree going to a vacuum BOV would be a backwards step for a DSG car
2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels
when I saw those kits I was SHOCKED.
I think GFB have a good product that retains the factory parts (most of them haha)
Yes, very old school
I've been thinking about the performance of my vRS
Sometimes it does not impress me - I'm left wondering what happened to the ponies
When it does go hard (which is 90% of the time) the DV is keeping up with the gear changes, no problem
But curiousity has got the better of me,
I've ordered one of these DV+ devices, it is the best after market DV I've seen
I love that it retains the factory solenoid which can be controlled pre-emptively by the DSG
I'm running stage 2 (ECU+Downpipe) so may as well ensure everything else is up to snuff
What I really want is haldex drive to the real so I can launch better
I think the replacement to the Octavia will have to be a Audi "S" wagon
2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels
Slight gravedig.
I've been thinking about doing a downpipe on the 1.8tsi.
I think that it's a fair assumption that if it works on the 2.0tsi then it will work on the 1.8tsi. (happy to hear opposing opinions)
I'm trying to keep this vehicle stock "sounding". So we'd have the 3" downpipe running into a 2.25" stock system. I also can't run without a cat converter (it's too big a corner for me to cut).
From what I've seen so far, the cheapest downpipe I can find is $340 delivered. A 3" 200cell cat converter will be around $140 delivered? Then you have to get the cat fitted (say $100?). Total = $480 parts / $100 labour = $580. Does this sound around the money?
OTOH, 42DD do a unit with cat converter for $445 (waiting on a freight price) or APR with cat con is ~$780 delivered from OS.
So tell me why I wouldn't get the 42DD or APR? Wait, I just realised - they probably need to be modded to fit the Octavia anyway??
thx
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
^ whats the turbo setup on the Octy 1.8T Brad? Is it mounted at the rear of the engine (near firewall) like on the vRS engine? Do you know if it's a k03 turbo?
FYI you won't be able to buy an APR downpipe from the USA - they will cancel/refuse the sale and redirect you to APR in Australia. If you have friends in USA then you might be able to get around it though.
AFAIK, it's a KO3 integral with the inlet manifold the same as the TSI 2.0vRS. APR lists both the 1.8 & the 2.0 under the same partno.
These downpipes seem to be coming from a non-APR dealer - certainly not APR itself.
Is the APR worth the extra spend over the 42DD? Difference appears to be coated mild steel compared to Stainless steel - yes?
Either way, have I got my numbers about right for the "DIY" version?
carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
The DIY numbers seem about right - and i know a few other Octy guys have used the catless ebay down pipes and then fitted a cat here in Oz.
If you want the car to remain as stock sounding as possible, then you will want to retain the resonator from your stock exhaust - on the Octy's i believe the res is housed within the cat back section, therefore no need to worry when simply changing downpipes.
But if the resonator is part of your factory downpipe, then it will be removed when fitting an aftermarket downpipe, and the noise is pretty bad. The resonator makes a big difference to the sound and tone - you want to keep it.
I say buy the ebay jobbie and worst case scenario it doesnt fit - resell it.
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