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Thread: dArK5hAd0W's Timeline

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
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    7

    Nice photo. Rare sight seeing one yellow rs let alone two parked side by side.

    Pity I didn't catch up with you guys inside the show. I was with the exotic car boys during the day.

    Todd's wagon looks tough!!

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ipswich, Queensland
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    287
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    Quote Originally Posted by dArK5HaD0w View Post
    spoke to the vw service centre, and the earliest they can do it for me is april 13th

    i wonder if canberra vw centre (cvwc) can do this job?
    didn't think of them till now. will give them a buzz trow n find out.
    I installed Bilstein PSS10's wound down 2/3 on the available threads, resulting in a 20mm rear and 35mm front drop - mine looked ridiculous on standard springs, much higher at the front than rear - now looks heaps better. This resulted in the lights (dynamic xenons) being focussed too low. I simply adjusted the beam height with the allen key adjusters on the rear of the headlights (5 minutes job) as you would a normal headlight, and they're fine. The high beam, which are a normal halogen were way too high previously, but are about right now with the drop.

    The only other thing I made sure of was that the sensor arms attached to the front & rear suspension arms where orientated the correct way when installing the coil-overs - apparently they can be flexed with the elbow facing the wrong way, resulting in bizarre values being fed to the headlight adjustment module. There's a thread on one of the VW Golf websites for installing new springs/shocks/coil-overs that shows the correct orientation for the sensor arms.
    Redline3345 MY11 Octavia vRS Wagon TSI DSG | Brilliant Silver | Milltek cat back exhaust | Bilstein PSS10 | TSR Panorama | Remsa | Leather | Sunroof | Towbar | Front Sensors | Boot Protector | Xenons | Corner Fogs | Alarm | Extended Warranty | Superskoda Bits & Bling

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Canberra, ACT
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    Quote Originally Posted by redline3345 View Post
    I simply adjusted the beam height with the allen key adjusters on the rear of the headlights (5 minutes job) as you would a normal headlight, and they're fine. The high beam, which are a normal halogen were way too high previously, but are about right now with the drop.

    The only other thing I made sure of was that the sensor arms attached to the front & rear suspension arms where orientated the correct way when installing the coil-overs - apparently they can be flexed with the elbow facing the wrong way, resulting in bizarre values being fed to the headlight adjustment module. There's a thread on one of the VW Golf websites for installing new springs/shocks/coil-overs that shows the correct orientation for the sensor arms.
    +1.
    i ended up adjusting it myself using the allen key.

    initially i borrowed a mate's vcds cable, in an effort to put the lights in "learning" mode. but it made no difference.
    so i did the adjustments as required.
    before adjusting though, i checked to see the sensor arms were in the right orientation, and there was enough buffer on either side of the sensor angle/threshold. otherwise the sensors would've bottomed out the leveling motors.

    been a few months now - no problems. they still do the start-up dance. they still turn with the steering. the aim is good too.

    speaking of springs - i had the car taken back in last week for its complimentary wheel alignment. the rear wheels were slightly angled inwards at the top, as expected once the springs had settled. they wound it out to correct the stance.
    unfortunately the rears still sit a good 10mm higher than the front
    MY17 Superb 162TSI, Business Grey, Tech+Comfort Pack, APR ECU+TCU Stg 1, SLA, Rieger Splitter + Side Skirts, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Hardrace Swaybar, TPMS

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Canberra, ACT
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    2,260
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    got my 30k service happening trow. sofar i've been quoted approx $430.

    while its there i'm getting them to look at:-
    - engine ticking noise audible at low rpm & idle.
    - faint knocking noise audible on low speed turning. appears to b coming from the wheel bearing.

    hopefully its all good at the end of the day trow and the hole in my pocket is not any bigger.
    MY17 Superb 162TSI, Business Grey, Tech+Comfort Pack, APR ECU+TCU Stg 1, SLA, Rieger Splitter + Side Skirts, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Hardrace Swaybar, TPMS

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Burwood, VIC
    Posts
    668
    Quote Originally Posted by dArK5HaD0w View Post
    got my 30k service happening trow. sofar i've been quoted approx $430.

    while its there i'm getting them to look at:-
    - engine ticking noise audible at low rpm & idle.
    - faint knocking noise audible on low speed turning. appears to b coming from the wheel bearing.

    hopefully its all good at the end of the day trow and the hole in my pocket is not any bigger.

    save yourself the pita of service department troubleshooting, get a Milltek or otherwise cat-back and you won't hear anything else
    - 2006 Audi B7 RS4 sedan, black, APR supercharged
    - 2008 Audi B7 RS4 avant, silver -- 2002 Audi B5 S4 vagwagon, ming blue
    - MY12 OCTAVIA vRS Wagon | DSG | revo | Eurojet DP | Milltek catback | KW V3's | 18x9 -45 Rays VR G2's | 18x8.5 -45 A8 Flat Fives | Kumho KU36 245/35 | Superpro ALK | ECS Stage 3 BBK | ECS eng mount | ITG Maxogen | DTM front splitter | SB

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Canberra, ACT
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluefrog View Post
    save yourself the pita of service department troubleshooting, get a Milltek or otherwise cat-back and you won't hear anything else
    lol....that would definately eliminate the noises

    final damage was $450. they rotated the wheels too.
    engine ticking was dimissed as "normal operation".
    knocking noise while turning was acknowledged as possible steering column or strut/suspension. need to book it in for another day for a closer look.
    MY17 Superb 162TSI, Business Grey, Tech+Comfort Pack, APR ECU+TCU Stg 1, SLA, Rieger Splitter + Side Skirts, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Hardrace Swaybar, TPMS

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Burwood, VIC
    Posts
    668
    Quote Originally Posted by dArK5HaD0w View Post
    engine ticking was dimissed as "normal operation".
    think I read somewhere in forumland that this is the injectors ??
    - 2006 Audi B7 RS4 sedan, black, APR supercharged
    - 2008 Audi B7 RS4 avant, silver -- 2002 Audi B5 S4 vagwagon, ming blue
    - MY12 OCTAVIA vRS Wagon | DSG | revo | Eurojet DP | Milltek catback | KW V3's | 18x9 -45 Rays VR G2's | 18x8.5 -45 A8 Flat Fives | Kumho KU36 245/35 | Superpro ALK | ECS Stage 3 BBK | ECS eng mount | ITG Maxogen | DTM front splitter | SB

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Bowral, NSW
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    1,706
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluefrog View Post
    think I read somewhere in forumland that this is the injectors ??
    Direct Injection, yeah??

    Compare a CRDi diesel to an old-style diesel, and you'll hear the obvious difference.
    Petrol DI is only new.
    Its to do with the multi-thousand PSI injector pressure.
    2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
    1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
    1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
    Not including hers...

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Canberra, ACT
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluefrog View Post
    think I read somewhere in forumland that this is the injectors ??
    yup. that was the diagnosis. they also said it may also be the "evap canisters operating at high pressure".
    MY17 Superb 162TSI, Business Grey, Tech+Comfort Pack, APR ECU+TCU Stg 1, SLA, Rieger Splitter + Side Skirts, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Hardrace Swaybar, TPMS

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Canberra, ACT
    Posts
    2,260
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    so starts my next challenge.....addition of footwell lighting.

    i got myself a set of footwell (front & rear) lighting from bold-sports. it comes pre-wired, ready to install.


    before yesterday i had some unknowns:-
    1. hopefully i have the right wiring diagram (terminals & vcds settings)
    2. how to remove trim around & under the steering wheel to get to the fuse & control modules.
    3. how to remove ashtray
    4. how to route wires for the rear footwells by removing the wall/side carpet.
    or
    5. how to route wires for the rear footwells by removing the door sill plastic.

    i had a practice go yesterday.......

    so i managed to workout #1...in theory, and got 2 & 3 sorted. i must say though, the diagnostic connector (above the bonnet lever) was a pain to remove. it needs to removed, otherwise u can't take out the trim below the steering wheel, hindering access to the control modules.

    however the routing is not going to b as easy i expected.
    routing the wiring for the front footwell will b fine. the front passenger side has a cutout for the footwell light. there is no cutout for the front driver side footwell. i'll need to cut the plastic - shouldn't b a biggie

    but routing the wiring to the rear for the rear footwells is going to b tricky. i prefer to gone down the centre console path, and then out to the sides under the front seats. unfortunately i'm yet to find any how to guides.

    removing the door sills plastic cover is one option, but on the drivers side, the bonnet lever will cause some headache.

    anyone have any recommendations? with instructions and pictures?
    i'll c if i can find any info on the briskoda forum.

    i don't want to remove the front seats.

    the back of the front seats already have precut holes for the rear footwells.

    here r some pics of the practice run.....







    MY17 Superb 162TSI, Business Grey, Tech+Comfort Pack, APR ECU+TCU Stg 1, SLA, Rieger Splitter + Side Skirts, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Hardrace Swaybar, TPMS

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