Hey Rob, Can I order a couple of bits from ECS? What's the process, get you the numbers and send through the money??
Cheers
Gavin
They are Goodridge lines, built by HEL, sold by Mark Hammond at Ingolstadt AutoSport (http://www.iautosport.com.au).
I got them on special for $100 for the set (plus postage). Not sure if that pricing is still current, you'd have to ask Mark.
The set I currently have on the car were made up by HEL by copying the lines I had at the time (which I thought were R32 lines, but it turns out were actually Bora V6 4Motion lines).
HEL are in Brisbane, and are excellent (local for you guys!), I highly recommend them (they came highly recommended to my by a motorbike riding friend who had his bike brake lines redone by them). Mark @ Ingolstat AutoSport was also excellent to deal with (and was instrumental in me getting the proper R32 spec lines - HEL didn't have the design for them when I initially asked, hence copying the lines I had).
That said, ECS Tuning do "Exact Fit" lines as well (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-.../Lines/ES5185/). The ADRs have changed of late, you no longer need full ADR007 (I think it was?) compliance (as that ADR has been superceded), and as long as they meet other international standards (DOT, TUV, etc), they're fine, so the ECS lines should be fine legally in Australia.
ECS charge USD$108.53 for their lines - if you're interested in them, we've got a second group ship order about to leave the US, and can probably include a set for you (and should be able to save a few dollars for you in the process).
Last edited by Manaz; 07-03-2010 at 12:54 PM.
Nothing to see here...
Hey Rob, Can I order a couple of bits from ECS? What's the process, get you the numbers and send through the money??
Cheers
Gavin
Well, I knocked off one of the list of mods I've got queued up for my car today - the Euro R32 DSG air intake mod.
So, why would you do this mod?
If you're familiar with the air intake path on a Mk4 Golf/Bora, air comes in from behind the front left headlight into a snorkel which carries the air into the bottom of the airbox.
The entry into the snorkel looks like this (stock on left, R32 DSG version on right):
Quite a difference!
The snorkels continue the trend (I'm sure you don't need me to tell you which is which):
As you can see , the difference between the diameter of the snorkels is different in every dimension.
The theory is that the much thicker snorkel allows better air flow, which is always a good thing! This has been shown in the past by quozl and graeme86 (they did back to back readings from the MAF and found that the R32 DSG snorkel/airbox combo flowed as well as one particular well-fancied CAI/pod filter, though having been in goodfella's Bora recently, I'm sure there won't be as much grin-inducing induction noise!).
I forgot to take photos as I went, but basically, the process is as follows.
1. Open bonnet. Duh!
2. Remove the two plastic guards which are screwed to the top of the headlight assembly. The right side one is required, the left one gets replaced.
3. Remove existing airbox lid - to do this, you have to unscrew the MAF. Well worth disconnecting the MAF from the wiring loom at this point too, as that will help you to move bits around (it's needed).
4. Remove top of battery box (including fuses) and battery. My battery also had a hold-down which needed removing. Remember when removing a battery that you disconnect the NEGATIVE (blue) terminal first.
5.Remove bottom of airbox. It's screwed to the battery tray as well as the strut tower.
6. Remove battery try. Four screws in the bottom of it hold it down.
7. Remove snorkel. It's screwed to the side of the car, you need to
This should leave you with a nice open space in the front left corner of your engine bay. You should be able to clearly see your gear selector mechanism down on top of your gearbox, as well as your gearbox mount between the gearbox and chassis.
8. Remove the plastic shielding from behind the headlight. This is secured in place with three split pins - the easiest way to deal with them is to punch their centres right through, and then pull them out. It's apparently theoretically possible to reuse them, but I'm glad I bought replacements!
And that's everything that needs removing removed. Time to start reversing the process.
9. Replace plastic shielding behind headlight with the new part. Pushing the bottom split pin through is a PIG - I found it easiest to do by reaching up from under the car.
10. Fit new snorkel loosely. Wiggle room needed for later installation of airbox.
11. Refit battery tray.
12. Refit new bottom half of airbox. The snorkel has to slide into it, you'll have to twist the airbox into position. Line it up using the two attachment points (one's on the battery tray). Once it's in, screw it down, then tighten the snorkel attachment nut (you'll need a spanner, no room for a socket).
13. Replace battery/battery box/fuse box/etc. Negative terminal of battery gets connected last.
14. Place airbox lid onto airbox (old lid, to fit the MAF), and re-attach MAF. Do not forget to re-connect the MAF to the wiring loom - if you do, you'll get a fault code that you need to get cleared. Yes, I forgot.
15. Replace plastic guards that enclose the headlight assembly. You'll be using a new guard on the left side.
All done. Close bonnet and bask in the glory of a job well done!
I hope to get some VAGCOM logs of some runs (I have some previous runs logged) to confirm quozl and graeme86's previous findings.
Last edited by Manaz; 10-03-2010 at 08:57 AM. Reason: Corrected some factual errors
Nothing to see here...
Without any other mods except swapping in the DSG air intake, my MAF log went from maximum 187.03 g/s to 194.36 g/s
This equates to ~5 hp
A guy at a tyre place once asked me if I had a pod filter fitted so it does give a nice sound as well.
New coils rolled into work this morning - cleaned the area and fitted an hour or so agoRunning sweet!
nice, let us know how it goes.
im assuming the snorkel where it goes into the airbox is the same size as the origional one though?
and where did you get the parts from? and the split pins you need to get?
I heard a rumour today that after 5 months of my car not running right, it has finnally been fixed!
pick it up tomorrow, can't wait!![]()
manaz, im going to rain on your parade for the best option (imo) lol
http://bambergvr6.50megs.com/stock_airbox_cai.htm
but this method is the best for non intakes like mine, made a huge difference and stealth as well.
from the best thread for FAQ/DIY's on the net for our cars (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1835863)
What’s behind you doesn’t matter..
i've been thinking of doing this... what pipe do you reccomend?
obviously needs to not collapse under vacuum, but still be flexible...
i don't get how the standard intake gets any airflow behind the lights... this mod has basically moved it down to the lower grill, like where fog lights would go hasn't it?
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