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Anything that states VW 502 or VW 504.00 will be OK.
You want a synthetic oil.
If you are shopping at Repco/SCheap/AutoBarn then you'll be looking at
Castrol Edge 5W-30 A3/B4
Shell Helix HX7 10W-40
Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W-30
Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30
If you are concerned with age go a 10W-40.
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by JustCruisn
So, does that mean '10' is thicker than '0' or '5'?
The Mobil website (looking there because of the ESP oil) stated that the 'Mobil 1 0W40' is the correct oil for my car. I also noticed that they sell a 'High Mileage' oil, which is 10W40. This latter part seems to fall in line with what you said about 'concerned with age'...
Sorry for the OIL NOOB questions, I've gotta learn it sometime! :-)
Solitare used in my car Castrol EP LL III 5W30.
VW recommend Castrol
That Longlife 3 oil is not usually on the shelf at popular auto retail stores, and it is a fair bit dearer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rannerz
Yes 10W is thicker than 5W at cold temps.
40 is thicker than 30 at high temps. So 10W40 is thicker than 5W40 at all temps.
Since you do not have a turbo it is more likely a thicker oil would do no harm.
Sorry, did you mean:Quote:
Originally Posted by JustCruisn
"So 10W40 is thicker than 5W30 at all temps" ?
Thoughts on an oil flush?
Yesterday I clocked 110011km
I've ended up getting:Quote:
Originally Posted by JustCruisn
Penrite, HPR 10, full synth, 10W-50 (10W-40 class), VW 502.00/505.00 .
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...81e1f332-1.jpg
- k
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I love looking for patterns like this hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by geoff_gti
haha seemed more worthwhile than 110000 ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookie28
After doing my semi-major service; timing belt, tb tensioner, water pump, thermostat, coolant flush, G12++ coolant, rocker cover gasket, inlet manifold gaskets, oil change, oil filter, fuel filter..
We had problems with the thermostat/housing leaking at the connection to the engine, water and coolant everywhere! For a long time we tried several different combinations, like old seal with new thermostat, new seal with old thermostat, etc, etc, but to no avail.. The only thing that got it sealed & got me home was a good whack of gasket sealant.
I'm guessing that the non-genuine thermostat gasket was the problem? I want to fix it properly, and am thinking of ordering (genuine): thermostat, thermostat seal/gasket & thermostat housing so far, any other input?
Also, I seem to have a little more pep planting the foot now, it could be anything, I even changed over to BP on Fri. But what I also noticed now when accelerating hard is a small rapid vibration/shake/shudder through the steering wheel and accelerator pedal I think.. Any thoughts on that one?
I'm not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we DID have a bit of uncertainty lining up the crankshaft when doing the timing belt. We looked through the little window of the crankcase, and the only things close were a screw with 2 marks either side of it. We lined it up with the screw, as that's what the last one (timing belt) seemed to be lined up with as well.
Also, it now seems to warm up on the dial quicker now, but after a good drive it's still normal heat. Could that be because it's just running on water? (till I re-replace thermostat and coolant this week).