What have you done to your mk4 (golf/bora) today?

**Dyldo** · 30-10-2010, 11:03 PM

any hints on how to crack and undo the inner tie rod end?

**audi-tone** · 31-10-2010, 05:43 PM

Didn't have to do anything like that. Was pretty straight forward actually. Sorry I couldn't help!

**Dyldo** · 31-10-2010, 07:12 PM

well, 9 hours of my sunday gone and i have a bit to report (but not a completed job). so what did i do today to my mk4?
- took both struts out
- compressed new strut assembly ready to go in
- removed and refit pass side tie rod and tie rod end - was a PITA job
- removed pass side LCA and pressed out front and rear bushings - bit of a PITA
- tried to remove driver side tie rod and got stuck at the boot with failing light
- tried to remove driver side LCA but got stuck due to front bushing bolt won't clear sump (Do i really have to take the sump out?)

**Back Door Shenanigans.** · 01-11-2010, 12:49 AM

Kept up with a gt3 through the twistys along mundaring weir road. Good half hour break to fang it down heh. Very surprised that he wasn't getting away from me kept up in the twistys with no problem, infact his tires started to squeal through some of the more sharp bends. Guess he wasn't full on fanging it.

**WhO** · 01-11-2010, 03:34 AM

Originally Posted by Dyldo

- tried to remove driver side LCA but got stuck due to front bushing bolt won't clear sump (Do i really have to take the sump out?)

Nope dont take the sump off, i came accross this a few days ago getting mine out!

Best way: Use a couple of jacks to support the front subframe then undo the 4x subframe bolts (and possibly need to undo the 4x p/s rack bolts). Lower the subframe until the bolt clears the sump

My slightly dodgy way (because i'm a lazy git): Undo the two bolts on the drivers side of the subframe, It should lower a bit, the bolt will nearly clear the sump. Use a jack and a block of wood on the engine sump and raise the engine on its mounts gently, dont forget its a weak as all heck alloy sump! Now get some form of leverage between the subframe and the chassis, a screwdriver in my case worked and gently push the subframe down, doesn't need to be much till the bolt will clear and hey presto.

Although i just thought, you might get away with undoing the dogbone mount and then using a ratchet strap on the bottom of the motor somewhere to the front of the car somewhere to effectively twist the motor away from the bolt, might work?

**dainese** · 01-11-2010, 08:21 AM

Originally Posted by Dyldo

any hints on how to crack and undo the inner tie rod end?

inner?
..........

**Dyldo** · 01-11-2010, 08:25 AM

Originally Posted by dainese

inner?
..........

yup. the tie rod (the actual rod) attaches quit near the centre of the car (and pivots on a pretty large ball tbh), and then the rod extends out about 10inches or so ("thats what she said") and thats where you find the locking nut and your tie rod end. the number of turns your tie rod end is along the tie rod is one of the determinant factors for alignment, so remembering how many turns off you took with the old tie rod end will help you get very close to the original alignment - or good enough to drive to get one anyway.

**dainese** · 01-11-2010, 08:37 AM

Originally Posted by Dyldo

yup. the tie rod (the actual rod) attaches quit near the centre of the car (and pivots on a pretty large ball tbh), and then the rod extends out about 10inches or so ("thats what she said") and thats where you find the locking nut and your tie rod end. the number of turns your tie rod end is along the tie rod is one of the determinant factors for alignment, so remembering how many turns off you took with the old tie rod end will help you get very close to the original alignment - or good enough to drive to get one anyway.

oh, as a mechanic, i don't think we ever saw the need to undo the inner (we left that to power steering rebuilders). i am not sure if the VW is any different. but get it close, and drive to the nearest one. no harm