Weitec front suspension in - uneven sides

**Manaz** · 22-11-2010, 08:14 PM

Originally Posted by Dyldo

I just had a thought - what if I threw back in the stock springs? That would restore original ride height, and therefore solve camber issues, right? It would create rake in terms of the difference between fronts being 20mm lower and and rears being stock.

Soft springs and firm dampers = mismatched ride. It'd be all soft on compression but quick on rebound - not much fun.

Originally Posted by h100vw

A couple of weeks running with extra camber isn't going to kill your tyres. For the hassle, I'd leave the springs in and sort the camber with the tie rods.
I'd still like to know how far out they are.
Gavin

Having experienced ~3º of negative camber on the rears, didn't take long to chew my (admittedly already fairly worn) tyres down to illegal on the inside edge. The problem isn't just camber though - the rear toe changes with rear camber too, and you end up "dragging" the tyres across that inner edge, which accelerates the wear.

**goodfella** · 22-11-2010, 08:19 PM

can you remove the strut then bend back the bracket? Then its just a CV boot replacement, unless theres more damage in the joint. Also, can you compare with pics of the other side?

**Dyldo** · 22-11-2010, 08:32 PM

It looks like the bracket was welded on the shock, which makes me think the welds were done before the strut was filled with gas, oil, and other nasty explosive stuff. And that means that if i can't bend it back into shape i am rooted.

Process appears to be jack car up, remove rim, jack LCA up and thus compress spring, undo top nut, drop LCA, undo pinch bolt, spread spindle, shimmy strut up and out. HOPEFULLY bend the bracket back (which will also set the height i need for the strut penetration) and reinstall. Then I just bet my camber on the fronts will be just fine.

But yes, both inner and outer boots will need doing. God I hope i can just undo the CV bolts and drop each shaft out for the boot kit.

**Manaz** · 22-11-2010, 09:04 PM

I saw a link recently to a tool that claims to let you replace cv joint boots without removing driveshafts - will try find it...

**Manaz** · 22-11-2010, 09:08 PM

Originally Posted by Manaz

I saw a link recently to a tool that claims to let you replace cv joint boots without removing driveshafts - will try find it...

And here it is...

Home Page > SchwabenBIS 7 23 10 > ES#1899405 Air Powered CV Boot Installer - BS-125

**Dyldo** · 22-11-2010, 09:09 PM

that'd be magic. as in REAL magic. i cannot see a way that could happen. the bolt is solid by design, and how that could get over a shaft i have no idea.

**Dyldo** · 22-11-2010, 10:38 PM

If i don't do my boots (they are only torn along the ridge, and not lengthways) I reckon i might be able to get away with it for ages. Thoughts?

**Dyldo** · 25-11-2010, 08:16 PM

Reinstalled the pass side (under lights - and pressure from wife) and thankfully it all went in quite well. Experienced now i guess.

Checked with the ultra-reliable "fist test" and pretty much even on both sides and looked good. next is a drive to let it settle and a quick'n'easy beaurepaires alignment whilst i wait for my Gruvenparts adjustable rear arms.

**h100vw** · 25-11-2010, 08:19 PM

Originally Posted by Dyldo

If i don't do my boots (they are only torn along the ridge, and not lengthways) I reckon i might be able to get away with it for ages. Thoughts?

Grease will come out of any hole in a CV boot. The amount will vary with road speed and heat. Best not to leave them too long when you know it's holed.

If you weren't aware of the hole, it is acceptable to leave them for ever