VW Bora Custom Fibreglass subwoofer build. (large photo content)

[JustCruisn]

I ran 0awg to the rear in my golf.
In the rain scuttle area on the drivers side is a plastic cover which takes the loom to the fuse box etc.
I drilled a large enough hole in this for the wire and sealed with silicon.
The line then ran down under the A pillar and along the side of to the boot area. There is a fairly large cabling area all the way along. Just pop off the trim and pull back the carpet and sound deadning and you will see there is a lot of room.

[PranK]

I ran 0awg to the rear in my golf.
In the rain scuttle area on the drivers side is a plastic cover which takes the loom to the fuse box etc.
I drilled a large enough hole in this for the wire and sealed with silicon.

Through to the bay? Any pics of this?

I miss my GTR in situations like this, the battery is in the boot!

[MCiN7]

There's also a grommet to the left of the abs pump, enters behind glove box next to some sort of climate control pipe. 0awg fits snug.

[JustCruisn]

Through to the bay? Any pics of this?

I miss my GTR in situations like this, the battery is in the boot!

Pics
Driver's side


Passenger side




The boot



Here is an album with lots of pics of my project.
CarPuter Photos by justcruisn | Photobucket

[PranK]

Sweet!! Thanks for that!


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[Hairy_mic]

Yea thanks good pics


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[Hairy_mic]

UPDATE>

Bought second 10" woofer for the left side.

Got a decent monoblock and separate 2 channel amp.

What would i be best doing with two chan.

options :

1. upgrade rear door speakers power via amp.

2. 6x9s in boot

3. 6x9 (on top off) parcel shelf (not cutting into metal boot cage thingy)

Any thoughts


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[noone]

what are the existing holes like in the rear shelf?
Why 16x9's? you already have subs for the low freq, normal 6" drivers should be fine either way. Personally I'd box them below the shelf but depends on the shelf openings.

If you want tight bass, make sure your internal volumes of the sub enclosures match the driver, otherwise you get some notes loud and others soft. I would not be porting the sub enclosures unless the ports match the box and driver spec's.

[Hairy_mic]

Comments in bold.

what are the existing holes like in the rear shelf?
The metal cage support bracket thingy has not been modded from original. so as fair as i am aware doesnt make fitting speakers possible

Why 16x9's? you already have subs for the low freq, normal 6" drivers should be fine either way.
doesn't have to be 6x9's. you think i would be better running amped speakers to the rear (or front) (or both?) door speakers. (how would this work with my 1 mono and 1 2chan amp

Personally I'd box them below the shelf but depends on the shelf openings.
i had considered a false floor in the boot for amps under plexiglass or somthing


If you want tight bass, make sure your internal volumes of the sub enclosures match the driver, otherwise you get some notes loud and others soft. I would not be porting the sub enclosures unless the ports match the box and driver spec's.
Yes, the volume is slightly below the rec spec, and my fitting of a port before actually hearing the driver concerns me (might have to fill it in) but can effectively seal up in the mean time

On a side note, i had a look at the 0awg cable in autobahn today, Feck thats a thick'un would i get away with 4awg

And those robbing ****s were looking for

$21.99 1m and 300$ for a 0awg full install kit.

[Hairy_mic]

And thats how the Off Side Sub OSSUB stayed for 8 months,

Been busy over the last few months stripping down OSSUB to remove port hole and improve the fit of the sub.
At the same time i made a start on the NSSUB Using what i have learned from the first attempt at OSSUB

points being :

1 Use only top quality (i used 3m) painters tape. It is low tack. this makes the removal of the mould easy, but because it has a waxy coating on it, it makes the removal of the tape from the backside of the sub easy also (i sprayed oil onto the tape on the OSSUB first timer round )

2 1 thickness of woven glass and 1 thickness of cut glass is sufficient to remove the sub from car and it will be strong enough to hold its shape.

3 the NSSUB is significantly bigger than the OSSUB probably double the volume

Final enclosures are 4 layers of cut glass sandwiched by a single layer of woven


$16 Bunnings 3m Tape



First coat. Woven 1 m2 3% Blue tint added to resin just because



Think this was 3 coats... 1 woven 2 cut



The yellow writing you can see is what is left on back side of sub after tape peels off, Kinda looks cool imho


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^ ok so to this point baffle is secured with screws gaps between the baffle and inside of sub filled with Builders bog metal fibreglass any gaps on the outside filled with bog, edges smoothed, and 3 layers of woven glass tying the whole thing together.


Fitted Automotive underlay to the entire inside of the box a few gaps, but considering im doing it all through a 10" hole i think i did ok



Underlay $38 L/m (1800 wide) from Foam and rubber shop

More to come