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Thread: timing belt on a 2001 mark 4

  1. #1

    Has anyone got a how to, for changing the timing belt on a 2001 mark 4 1.6l petrol.

    Thanks Rod....
    Mark V 2006 MY07 2.0Tdi Comfortline 6spd/Man

    Mark IV 2001 1.6L (SOLD)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    VW Race HQ - Sydney
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    Users Country Flag

    timing belt

    Whats your mechanical ability ?
    I dont mind guiding you but you need a few tools and sound knowledge of cars .
    I'll get a list going shortly on what you need

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Camden, Sydney
    Posts
    7,377
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by Bug_racer
    Whats your mechanical ability ?
    I dont mind guiding you but you need a few tools and sound knowledge of cars .
    I'll get a list going shortly on what you need
    Sounds good.
    Camden GTI Performance. VW / AUDI Specialists
    All Mechanical Work, Log book Servicing, New and used Parts and Imports
    19-20/6 Badgally Road, Campbelltown, 2560
    02 4627 3072 or 0423 051737 www.camdengti.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    VW Race HQ - Sydney
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    Talking

    Just finished my vortex assignment can get back to reality

    Tools you need .

    Rattle gun
    5mm allen key 3/8 drive
    6mm allen key on 1/2 inch adapter for rattle gun
    16mm 1/2 inch socket
    18mm 1/2 inch socket
    3/8 drive extensions (1 is about 5cm the other 15cm)
    small allen key approx 3mm ?
    vice grips (large)
    13mm T bar
    multi grips (smaller)
    13mm spanner
    16mm spark plug socket 3/8
    10mm socket 3/8
    25 torx bit
    jack with rubber mat
    stand
    phillips head screwdriver (medium)




    Jack car up , put stand under drivers side only
    remove middle cover 4 torx bits
    remove outer covers 2 torx bits (1 each side)
    remove covers by pulling them down
    passnger side cover removed reveals coolant drain
    Drain coolant
    drain power steering fluid from power steer pump
    remove all the covers in engine bay (2)
    disconnect vacuum hose from charcoal canister
    disconnect top coolant hose from bottle
    unplug coolant bottle
    unplug charcoal canister
    unscrew coolant bottle
    remove lower coolant hose off bottle
    remove clamp closest to back of car off power steer bottle
    undo 2 13mm head bolts attached to bracket and power steer bottle
    undo 5mm allen key head bolt attached to bottle
    remove bracket
    place power steer bottle in front of engine near dipstick
    under the vehicle remove the dogbone mount 2x13mm 2x16mm
    place jack with pad under sump (be real careful , there is a trick to doing this)
    Have the jack firmly against engine
    loosen 2x16mm bolts and 2x18mm bolts
    remove bolts
    remove engine mount
    remove timing belt cover , jacking and lowering engine until it gets to that sweet spot which makes it easy to remove
    undo 3 16mm head bolts holding the engine mount bracket . the one at the back of the engine on top is tricky but get the engine in right position its easy .
    Remove bracket , you will need to find engine sweet spot for this , its doable but not easy , alternatively you could wait till later to do it after all the covers and pulley is off
    Line up all timing marks . top cam with rocker cover and bottom with cover and pulley
    remove front pulley with 6mm and rattle gun . Be really careful as many people strip these bolts
    remove cover over timing belt 5x 10mm bolts
    if you couldnt remove mount earlier try now
    mark crankshaft
    remove timing belt adjuster .
    have a look at the adjuster it slots into the welsh plug hole . It also is spring loaded when you turn the inner against the outer there is a A type arrow that moves , it must sit in the middle of the V . You will see what I mean when you have it in your hands . it only has to move some 30-40 degrees clockwise .
    remove belt
    I recomend changing water pump now , its 3 10mm bolts and a 13mm on the bracket above
    fit new tensioner handtight only
    turncrank pulley approx 3-4 teeth clockwise
    fit belt over cam pulley , tensioner and crank pulley loosely
    grab the belt at the water pump area and try and put it over water pump . the bottom crank pulley should turn and give you enough slack to put it over water pump . Its tricky , I can do it first time now Ive done so many but will take you a little bit of time .
    once its on the belt between cam pulley , water pump and crank should be tight and the belt around the tensioner should be loose .
    Use the small allen key with vice grip attached in 1 of the holes of the timing belt adjuster and turn it anti clockwise . I have made a tool for this but the allen key will do .
    line the 2 marks up described earlier , hold tensioner and tighten

    reverse the above procedure .
    When finished fill coolant to the top straight away and also power steering fluid
    coolant will go down slowly , its self bleeding and takes about 12-24 hours to fully bleed

    Good luck

  5. #5
    Thanks alot Bug Racer your a champ.
    I am not a machanic, but have been working on my cars since I was 18. Well that was a while ago.
    I must say i have'nt done a timing belt for years now, allways changed the car before it hit 100,000. Not this time. (wife is in charge)
    TDI is coming.

    It looks a little involved will see how i go.

    Thanks again Bug.

    This will help a few people out i reckon.
    Mark V 2006 MY07 2.0Tdi Comfortline 6spd/Man

    Mark IV 2001 1.6L (SOLD)

  6. #6
    simex Guest

    A guy at a VW dealer told me that the timing belt gets done at 120,000 on a 1.6L MK4 golf. is that right?

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