Yeah i took the clamp off straight after i finished my little test run. I had a look at the wiring and it seems okay, my soldering isn't the best but it all appears connected and i wrapped them in electrical tape so it shouldn't short. So just for my knowledge, what did clamping that line do? Pretty much just stop the ecu from controlling the actuator and letting the turbo run as hard as it can? Will buying a new n75 just bring it back up to approx 10-12psi? Sorry if im being a nub, still new to this
Edit: I stated the engine and let it idle and tested the n75 plug with a multi meter and got like 7.6 volts. Is this okay or is it off?
Last edited by Anth1223331; 31-05-2015 at 12:19 PM.
google how an actuator works. Always better if you see it yourself first hand. Don't buy the N75 first. You need to check the wiring. Possibly with the ignition on, you will see voltage across the N75 plug. Never had to check this with a meter as I can use VCDS to do an output test of the N75 which makes it click once a second. Proving it works.
Gavin
Well yeah I measured about 7.6 volts across the plug with the engine running. Is this about right? I read some where that it's ment to be 12v?
Spooky......
I also went to bunnings and made a boost leak tester. Used a pvc cap and a tyre valve insert sealed with epoxy
I am in the opposite situation. Pumping air through I get about 3-4 psi. I've checked everything on the TIP, pancake pipe, used soap suds but it just wont hold any pressure. Oil cap off and the pvc cap is on the inlet just before the maf
Any ideas?
Did you take out the hockey puck looking thing and cap it off??
No sir I did not.....
Read a couple of diys and didn't see that
&#%% sake, was pumping like a loon for ages
haha yeah i was doing it for a bit like... okay my intake is ****ed... then i was like, wait... im a retard hahah ended up being all g though.![]()
Haha
So you cap off the port below the puck and also the inlet to the puck?
Bookmarks