Stereo Install

[MRJZ]

Well guys, im quiet handy when it comes to large stereo installs, so here go a few questions for you.

I need to remove the seats, in order to ensure the air bags dont come out, take the negative terminal off? Nothing else is needed to ensure i dont get covered in talcum like powder?

Secondly, what size are the speakers in the front and rear doors?

beyond that, this will be fun!

[fuzion]

Why are you removing the seats? i presume to put the amps underneath.

its very tight under there, and then dont expect much feet space for the passengers if they get in as the tip of their feet will definately hit it.

regarding airbags, i presume thats the way. but you might have to get yoru airbag faults cleared via vagcom afterwards.

also, your best off to get a ISO plug for your aftermarket deck as it makes things a lot quicker/and easier.

[BL33SU]

dont think its good to put amps under there.. maybe he wants to sound deaden the whole car.

[MRJZ]

Hey fellas,

Running a few wires under the carpet, beyond the footwells and sides under the trim.

[fuzion]

you dont really need to take them out, you can get around it ..

unless your wanting to run some huge gauge cable (which beats me why people need it anyhow. well other then 'show')

you should be fine, done 3 of them with plenty of cuts/bruises and got them through and clean install too.

[VW18LT]

I ran 2gauge wire from my battery to my 2 amps in the boot and ran all the wiring from all the doors as well and there was heaps of room down the edge of the carpet.

just run it under the carpet there is like a channel you will see it when u lift up the kick plate all the bottom of your door.

i put 6inch split speakers all round but had to put in small spacers so the window didnt hit the back of the speaker.

but all in all you will find pulling things apart pain in the ars but once its apart its easy to go back together.

[MRJZ]

2 reasons, thick guage wire for amps.

Running a 600 and 800 monoblock.

Secondly, dvd screen unit has a brain unit sitting in the back, need to get 3 wires between the two, one as fat as the amp wire.

I will give it a go around the sides of the car. I like to seperate speaker wire and live power, but it may be impossible....

Jim

[h100vw]

Yeah disconnect the battery to stop airbag faults.

Gavin

[fuzion]

i dont know why, but people think the thicker the cable the better it is and a smaller cable cant handle that much ampage/volts..

then you look at the alternator cable, or battery cables, hell even normal power lines and not even close to the same thickness and run 10x more ampage/voltage.. lol

(not having a go at anyone here, just generally speaking)

[SoVeReIgN]

i dont know why, but people think the thicker the cable the better it is and a smaller cable cant handle that much ampage/volts..

then you look at the alternator cable, or battery cables, hell even normal power lines and not even close to the same thickness and run 10x more ampage/voltage.. lol

(not having a go at anyone here, just generally speaking)

Powerlines run AC rather than DC, and you'll find are made out of steel rather than copper so thinner gauge can sustain much more power. Your Alternator cable only needs to be thick enough to carry as much power as the alternator can produce (Usually <100amps) and the battery wire, well again, your car in normal operation wouldn't (very rarely - Maybe if the aircon compressor clicked on while you had your lights on, stereo pumping, fans on full etc) use more than 100amps. An above average stereo system can easily use much more than 100amps.

Your cables are something you definently don't want to skimp on - I've seen many installations where a low quality (power - RCAs are a whole different story) cable has caused all sorts of dramas. Amps going into protection when they can't draw enough current, causing distortion when they can't draw enough current etc... And if you skimp on fuses with a puny powercable it will become a fuse and burn your car to the ground!

From my very very rough memory, 8 gauge is only good for ~80amps, 4gauge for ~140amps etc. (safely)

In ANY car install I always recommend using no less than 4gauge cable, overengineering is safe and leaves some overhead for general use, and if you want to add anything else down the track

Ever seen those cars where the headlights dim to the bass? This is because the system is drawing more power than the alternator can provide (@~14.4V) and is starting to pull power from the battery (@~12V) - I know a Hyundai Excel's alternator is rated @ 90amps - I'd expect our cars to be 120 or so. If 40amps is the car's general running with the headlights on, theres 80amps from a stereo system right there and the full capacity of an 8gauge cable.
I know I've blown ~80amp fuses with only a mildish stereo system! I wish I could find a site I looked at ages ago which had a whole bunch of cable current ratings, but I'm at work - Don't have my bookmarks and google isn't helping

(Just trying to point out that in many cases, thin cable is not enough!)

Cheers,
Dave