Random Stalling, hard to start and EPC light

[beale187]

Crank sensor will typically only happen when car is hot, once cooled off will start back up without an issue.

Checked battery terminals?


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Terminals, earth at Gearbox and under battery tray, swapped MAF, removed MAF, alternator charging battery at 14.1V, no fault codes.

Little stumped, tbh. Typically stalls around 20km -60km, revs just slowly start dropping and throttle becomes unresponsive. When it stalls the EPC and battery light pop up.

[HaydEn]

The battery and epc light coming on is because the key is still in the ON position with nothing happening. Unrelated.

I have seen something like you’re describing due to a dodgy accelerator pedal. Could equally as well be the TB but they are a fair bit more resilient.


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[beale187]

mm.. good point Haydo, didn't think about those as a possible issue. If the accelerator pedal sensor is tied into the ESP system, might also explain another issue I'm having with the ESP light flashing every time I do a roundabout at low speed.

The accelerator pedal would not impact the vehicle starting up though, would it?

[HaydEn]

Won’t effect start up as ecu leaves the throttle body open a smidge ~6%

I’ve started cars without the pedal connected.

ESP thing I’m not sure if the pedal can be related, I would have thought that would be the abs controller detecting a wheel slip situation.


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[beale187]

Won’t effect start up as ecu leaves the throttle body open a smidge ~6%

I’ve started cars without the pedal connected.

ESP thing I’m not sure if the pedal can be related, I would have thought that would be the abs controller detecting a wheel slip situation.


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RE: Pedal - Good to know! Makes sense how else would it obtain idle!

RE: ESP - Figured the same, assumed wheel speed sensor haven't diagnosed yet. Didn't think the 2 problems were related though but you've got me thinking now..

Will dig deeper... Thanks mate.

[beale187]

The battery and epc light coming on is because the key is still in the ON position with nothing happening. Unrelated

Started thinking about this over the weekend... I assumed the problem was electrical due to EPC and Battery light appearing. But these are really the only symptoms and VCDS isn't giving me any DTC's...

If these lights are on simply because the key is in the ON position then really the problem could be "non-electrical".

Also cleaned the throttle body, throttle body adaption and replaced the alternator.

Sadly still experienced difficulty starting and loss of power. Might start looking at this one as being fuel related..

[jmcc]

Any luck? If the throttle can adapt then it's not the issue I had with my throttle.

Did you try the crank and cam sensors? I've never had a DTC with any of my car issues, only ever got the loss of power one from disconnecting the battery. two separte issues result in the car stopping too, so I think it's just a dumb ecu

[beale187]

Any luck? If the throttle can adapt then it's not the issue I had with my throttle.

Did you try the crank and cam sensors? I've never had a DTC with any of my car issues, only ever got the loss of power one from disconnecting the battery. two separte issues result in the car stopping too, so I think it's just a dumb ecu

Haven't had a chance to come back to this one, spent my weekend with domestic duties...

It's been running ok (not great, just ok.) Thinking I might pull the fuel pump and inspect it over the weekend. Haven't changed the cam or crank sensors yet...

[beale187]

Well couple of months on and the only consistency I've noticed is that it seems to only stall when <1/4 of a tank of fuel is in the car.

I haven't done a fuel pressure test yet but I'm guessing it'd probably read right unless I happen to do it at the time of the fault.

Could it just be crud at the bottom of the tank? Or bad pickup from the pump?

[beale187]

Car struggled to start in the morning (same as every other time, had <1/4 tank of fuel). Finally got it going, drove 1hr to work and could hear a slight humming noise coming from the rear seat.

Went to start her up at smoko and she wouldn't go. Fuel pump dead.

Got home, pulled the pump out of Project Bora R32, stuck it in and all is well again. Poor photo but upon further inspection of the pump, I suspect the soldering on the positive wire is shot which would explain why the problem was intermittent due bad contact at this solder joint.



Also, on a side noted. Pulled the R32 pump out of the Golf and stuck it in Bora R32. Different part no.'s but identical in size so not sure what the difference is.

R32 Pump (Left) - Bora V6 (right)