Yep, definitely sounds like a fluid issue not pads...
Of the 14-16 brands (I loose count...) of pads we do, I can pretty much narrow your choices down to 3 pads, depending on how serious you're taking it, and how much you want to spend.
The entry level track pad we go would be the QFM A1RM, which is a Ferodo DS2500 equivalent. To suit Golf 4 would be $119 per set front or rear.
Next level up would be the Project Mu Club Racer. This is probably the stand out track pad in the world. It's the sister compound to the V8 Supercar control pad (Project Mu H16-03) but is baked and finished in their street pad factory, not the competition factory, so you're getting a pad that's only slightly less in performance, but miles cheaper. They're around the $300-350 mark per set front or rear. In terms of pad life, when used in competition will last 4-5 times longer than an A1RM, or 1-2 times longer than a Ferodo DS3000, so value for money they're an unbelievably good pad!
Then top of the tree would actually be the H16-03, which is $450-$590 per axle set depending on application etc. The Project Mu is the first pad the V8's have run where they don't have to do a pad change to make the full race distance at Bathurst, but have to because of the regs. That will give you some idea on the life of the PMu pad relative to the other 'big brands' they've run in the past.
As far as fluid goes, got two options that we recommend. For street and semi regular track, go the Penrite Sin600, $25 per 500mL. Or for a more serious fluid, the Project Mu G Four 335 (as also used, but not required, by a lot of the V8 Supercar teams) is $85/L, which is damned good by competition spec fluid pricing standards...
Any questions at all feel free to give us a bell on 1300 884 836.
Regards,
Greg
---------- Post added at 11:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:45 AM ----------
Just on this point, it's definite not always the case...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirocco20348
With regards to the rear pads, probably the biggest mistake people make is neglecting the rear because they believe it does less work. Yes it's true that the rear 'axle' as a component does less of the overall vehicle braking, but it's also got substantially smaller hardware in which to do it with, so the actual 'brakes' themselves can often work nearly as hard as the front ones do. What can happen if you neglect the rear is that end starts to fade out slowly without you noticing, and it puts more pressure on the fronts, which causes them to fade, and people blame the front for a problem caused by the rear. You can get away with a lesser pad all round when the same pad is used. The two major exceptions are a VERY light front wheel drive, or something rear end heavy like a Porsche, neither of these apply in your case. All that said, in your case, I would recommend running the same pad front and rear, or one that's only slightly less in terms of bite, but definitely not a street pad... It's got to be something heavier duty than stock if you're going to change the fronts.
