Pedal wont firm up after bleeding

[PranK]

Hi All,

I replaced my rear rotors and pads and also the brake lines to braided. As the car has been with me for 6 years I thought it was worth flushing brake fluid also.

I used a combination of a vacuum bleeder and also my wife and/or children on the brake pedal until they got bored.

Fluid coming through is nice and clean now and with no bubbles, BUT the pedal has no resistance at all.

I've been very careful to keep the resevoir topped up so there was no air in the master cylinder, but I had read that I may need to bleed that anyway. I fund 2 small bleeding nipples on the side of the tank.

I bled both rear at kind of the same time, but probably rear passenger more first than the drivers rear.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all.

[h100vw]

Bleed the master cylinder first. Then the rest of the system. Also run an absolute output test. I find that helps get a good pedal on my polo after a bleed

[PranK]

I don't have vagcom.
I should change my front lines then first, then do master cylinder, then go around the car. Does that seem sane?

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[h100vw]

Yeah sounds good.

[PranK]

Thanks! What is the correct rotation order?

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[dylan8]

When I had let the reservoir run dry I could get a hard pedal when the car was off, as soon as the key was turned I'd lose pedal.
Lucky Hawk was able to rescue me and trigger the ABS pump. fixed everything.

A mate fixed his soft pedal by limping the car to a gravel carpark and jumping the brakes enough to trigger the ABS a couple of times, then another bleed fixed it.
obviously not ideal as you have to drive there and back with not much brakes...

[PranK]

Thanks dylan, my concern is that I have been very careful to make sure the reservoir did not run dry. I topped it up every 150mls of fluid bled.

I guess I'll just do the front lines and bleed them and then bleed the reservoir and fingers crossed thats all I need.