Support VWWC

Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Mk4 gti fuel pressure regulator options

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    sorrento victoria
    Posts
    20

    Mk4 gti fuel pressure regulator options

    Hi all,
    I have searched the posts and can't seem to find much info on fuel pressure regulators. Just wondering have you changed/upgraded yours, if so what did you use.
    From what I've read the stock mk4 gti runs a 3 bar reg (happy to be corrected).
    Audi tt seems to be 4 bar and a sensible change - just after thoughts, opinions and options.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Mexico
    Posts
    8,979
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by gtirate View Post
    Hi all,
    I have searched the posts and can't seem to find much info on fuel pressure regulators. Just wondering have you changed/upgraded yours, if so what did you use.
    From what I've read the stock mk4 gti runs a 3 bar reg (happy to be corrected).
    Audi tt seems to be 4 bar and a sensible change - just after thoughts, opinions and options.
    Thanks
    No need to change the FPR unless there's a problem with the one that's fitted. The software in the ECU is written to inject fuel based on 3BAR of rail pressure.

    Upping the rail pressure will mean more fuel injected and although the ECU can regulate the mixture to bring it back in limits. It's not the way to do things.

    If you want more power a tune is the way to go. It's not expensive in power/dollar terms.

    Gavin

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    sorrento victoria
    Posts
    20
    Thread Starter
    Thanks Gavin, I was actually advised to do this as a cheap mod by a senior vw mech. He suggested fpr and k&n filter, but you make sence, are you in Melbourne and how much for a tune and what should I expect?
    I am also unsure as to the right order to do things ie fmic, boost control, dump pipe. Do I fit then tune or vice versa. Sorry for the nube questions.
    Also we chatted a while ago about coil amps etc as I was having a few probs. ended up with a full top end rebuild, new head etc. so all good now and have about 2k to spend.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    blankedy
    Posts
    4,058
    Your mechanic sounds a little green to this...
    Tune gives the biggest gains, dump pipe, FMIC, etc are good mods as is CAI options. Talk to tuners as to what mods work best with their tunes and if they will offer you free / discounted upgrades if they have a stage 2, etc tune.
    Generally speaking the tune gives you 90% of the power, exhaust, intake etc give you a little more. FMIC helps keep temps down which is more relevant in stop-start driving and summer.

    If an air filter makes any difference, it's very minor. Discussed many times.
    Don't forget to budget for some handling upgrades, more power works better with more grip.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Mexico
    Posts
    8,979
    Users Country Flag
    $2000 is a good amount of money. Easily spent though.

    You don't need any boost controllers/FPRs/injectors/MAFs for Custom-Code without a turbo change.

    Several options though, as Ben says, you should consider the chassis too. Although I ran 165kwatw of my A3 Turbo for a while, with only one small drama.

    Choices, no order just as they came to mind. I am not including any fitting costs in the mental arithmetic.

    1. You can easily do a Phase 2 tune and downpipe for $2k with money left over. You might get a TBE and come under budget or a cheap FMIC instead of the exhaust??

    2. You could go Phase 1 and coilovers. Cash in pocket to spend on brakes/petrol/beer/ladies

    3. Phase 1 tune only and heaps left over.

    I am coming to Melbourne at the beginning of September for a week and could do your ECU then but I can bench flash it, if you sent it too me. Phase 1 is $649 and Phase 2 is $749.

    You can run hardware mods with Phase 1 and only miss out on a few KWs. Phase 2 really needs a FMIC and downpipe.

    I always advise plan the whole project and do the tune once, avoiding the whole re-inventing the wheel thing.

    The car should also be well serviced, plugs, filters etc. You want to consider the state of the diverter valve and dog bone mount as well. The mount is sub $50 and a DV can be had for $60 delivered off ebay.

    The FMIC really helps with heat soak but doesn't really gain power. It will maintain intake air temps all year round, so rather than power dropping off you can drive harder before heat becomes a limiting factor.

    If you get to 150kw at the crank, you should be happy. The turbo won't do any more.

    Gavin

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Mildura, Victoria
    Posts
    158
    Users Country Flag

    Gavin's right..

    Although I have done things differently to get my power. Turbosmart has fuel regulators for gti's and specific bov that fit where the original factor one goes but has atmospheric realise as we'll..

    I have a boost tee and a few other things from them and mine is putting out some unreal power from the stock turbo with no problems at all.. I'm not running a pod filter either. K&n panel filter is enough.. Autobarn can help or me lol
    '01 Mk4 Golf GL, Engine swapped to 1.8L GTi motor, Whiteline Swaybars, Nolathane & Pedders Bushes, K&N Oversize Pod Filter, 2 1/2 inch Cat back exhaust

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
| |