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Thread: 1.8t - Car randomly stutters under light load

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  1. #1
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    1.8t - Car randomly stutters under light load

    Hey guys, just hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

    My car has started randomly stuttering/jerking under light accelerating conditions. For example while on cruise control on flat road or when driving normally.

    With full boost, it doesn't stutter, but the car doesn't sound 100%, maybe like air venting into the atmosphere?

    I only noticed the problem this morning while on my way to work.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Could be heaps of things.
    I'd check for air leaks. I had a massive hole in the elbow of a line near behind throlle body, right side near the coolant sensor. I could hear the sucking air over the idling engine. It causes a strange fluctuation and sometimes hesitant acceleration.

    Or the ignition control module could be dying which will drop a cylinder, that will make it run like **** and sound rough like a Subaru.
    MK4 GTI - Sold
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    MK5 Jetta 2.Slow - Until it dies.

  3. #3
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    Or the small vac hose that goes to the fuel press reg.
    Widebody Cayman S Turbo, 83 ur Quattro
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  4. #4
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    Thanks Guys,

    I created a boost leak tester and the results are in.... my car has at least 2 leaks... I cant hold pressure at all...

    1) A leak from a small pipe connecting from under the intake manifold (06A103221C)
    2) Another leak somewhere near the intercooler, maybe one of the major pipes.. about to remove the front bumper and wheel etc to have a look..

    I can only imagine how much power I am losing from these leaks.

    Anyone who hasn't boost leak tested their car, I would strongly encourage it.

    Not sure if this will fix my problem but its a good start. Ill post pictures of my Bunnings boost leak tester this afternoon. Cost $20.
    Last edited by Sirocco20348; 03-11-2013 at 05:08 PM.

  5. #5
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    For anyone that is curious about the boost leak tester... This is hooked up to my bike pump, but you could also get an attachment to hook up to a spare tyre, or even change the nozzle to fit onto a compressor...


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirocco20348 View Post
    For anyone that is curious about the boost leak tester... This is hooked up to my bike pump, but you could also get an attachment to hook up to a spare tyre, or even change the nozzle to fit onto a compressor...

    Looks great! Do you have a pic of all the individual parts you got from bunnings to make it? Did you block the other end going into the throttle body too?

    Also, I have a spare SMIC after just installing my FMIC..

    PS - That Wiring/Plug goes to nothing on my GTI/1.8T too..
    Dark Grey Mk4 Golf, 1.8T GTI conversion, APR stage 1, stock air intake, FMIC, 3" to 2.5" Exhaust, FK AK Street Coils, Black 18" (Avant Garde M310's ?), tinted tails, ...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenbot View Post
    Looks great! Do you have a pic of all the individual parts you got from bunnings to make it? Did you block the other end going into the throttle body too?

    Also, I have a spare SMIC after just installing my FMIC..

    PS - That Wiring/Plug goes to nothing on my GTI/1.8T too..
    Thanks for the heads up on that wiring plug, I was trawling etka last night going insane. Ill just let it hang.

    I can take close up pics of it tonight, but honestly it is not very sophisticated.

    - 50mm threaded piece of PVC (Thread goes about half way down)
    - 50mm matching threaded cap
    - 1x Air connector of choice, I used a schrauder bike valve which required me to use a 8.5mm drill bit to drill a hole. (Exact fitment). I left the harder more durable piece of rubber around the base of the valve.
    - 1x roll of plumbers tape to wrap around the main thread of the 50mm threaded cap.
    - Glue the valve onto the threaded cap with loctite, cold weld, whatever you like, aslong as it does not leak. (i used loctite on this occasion.

    • Insert the newly constructed boost leak tester into the intake pipe.
    • Remove the PCV valve from the TIP and plumb the hole with something. (I used a c02 canister as in picture). If you dont do this, apparently it pushes oil into the TIP and you will be blowing smoke afterwards.
    • Remove the oil cap from the top of the engine.


    No need to block off anywhere else. Start pumping with your bike pipe and listen for the dreaded hissing noises haha

    If using a compressor start at 5 psi, because its pretty darn obvious when you have a leak. If its ok at 5psi, then keep raising it up to what is normal boost for your engine. If its holding that pressure fairly well, then you should be all good!

    I used this page and youtube video for inspiration...

    Stealth 316 - Intake pressure tester
    http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rc...55819444,d.dGI

  8. #8
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    Thanks for letting me know about your spare intercooler. I repaired mine last night with some epoxy weld, but if it doesn't work properly I will give you a PM and we can work out a deal. I haven't tested mine yet lol, apparently this epoxy weld is good for 4500psi.. so i don't think 20psi should be a problem. Will let you know.

  9. #9
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    Farout my intercooler has a hole in one of the vents... Does anyone have any recommendations on how to fix this? Or is it best to source a 2nd hand one. I don't want to buy a front mount just yet. Id rather stay with my side mount for financial reasons atm.



    Also this connector was hanging down the side of the intercooler... its not a vacuum hose.. anyone know where it is meant to go?


  10. #10
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