Mk 4 bora scraping noise.

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Originally Posted by Wighty654

Yeah i thought wheel bearing should be constant but i wasnt sure. Occasionally it can be jerky when starting to move, as if your bunny hopping with the clutch but that could (hopefully) just be me being a bad driver temporarily :P

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Well if it's jerky at slow speeds it sorta sounds like what I had. I doubt you're that bad a driver to only bunny hope when turning tight (unless you bunny hope all the time)! When I had my problem I heard a scraping sound but it was actually a wheel skidding when the rear diff locked up.

By any chance does your ESP light flash while turning tight? Does it happen when turning left or right or both?

Have a read through this thread and hopefully it won't be you but it is a pretty common problem on the 4mo.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...eds-60037.html

It's just weird as it has new control arms, bushes, tie rods ends and CV joints and stock setup to have a scraping sound unless the aftermarket exhaust was a dodgy install and something is hanging loose?

That doesnt sound like it because ive had a mate hanging out the side of the car whilst I move around on the driveway and all the wheels are turning smoothly. The ESP doesnt kick in either. Thanks heaps for the suggestions but they dont sound right.
Is there any way I can stop the car putting power to the rears without actually disconnecting the driveshaft?

i heard of a famous front wheel skidd enabling Fuse that you can disconnect .. not entirely sure which one it is .. surely someone has tried it ..

Just take out the Haldex fuse for FWD fun.

cheers guys, ive heard haldex fuse is #31, does that sound right to you guys? It definitely beats disconneting the rear driveshaft :P

Alright, ive removed fuse 31 which makes it a fwd. I then tested the turning thing and no noise. is this gonna be a haldex problem or a diff problem or is there no way to tell without ripping things to pieces?
Am i right in saying the haldex is basically a hydraulically controlled gearbox that shifts the power from front to back depending on grip?
If so could it be the haldex not engaging properly because of the controller or worn internal parts?
Has anyone else had a similar problem?

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Originally Posted by Wighty654

Has anyone else had a similar problem?

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There was a thread on here a while back where someone spoke of the haldex causing crabbing during tight, low speed turns - it's not something like that is it?

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Originally Posted by Wighty654

Alright, ive removed fuse 31 which makes it a fwd. I then tested the turning thing and no noise. is this gonna be a haldex problem or a diff problem or is there no way to tell without ripping things to pieces?
Am i right in saying the haldex is basically a hydraulically controlled gearbox that shifts the power from front to back depending on grip?
If so could it be the haldex not engaging properly because of the controller or worn internal parts?
Has anyone else had a similar problem? <--yes lol

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Ouch, thought so bro. Read through the thread I linked you earlier.

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Originally Posted by kapowww

Have a read through this thread and hopefully it won't be you but it is a pretty common problem on the 4mo.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...eds-60037.html

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A few guys here have had their haldex/rear diffs replaced. From memory the haldex and rear diff are one unit? If the haldex isn't serviced every 60k or so this problem seems to occur. Haldex is like the centre diff.

Mine cost $2000 to fix but thankfully was under warranty from the second hand dealer. I got quotes up to $3000 but I believe others have got cheaper ones.

Yeah it's sounds like it could be something like that except for one thing, there isn't any wheel dragging/spinning or crabbing. That's my one hope that it isn't gonna be expensive :p

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Originally Posted by kapowww

A few guys here have had their haldex/rear diffs replaced. From memory the haldex and rear diff are one unit? If the haldex isn't serviced every 60k or so this problem seems to occur. Haldex is like the centre diff.

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The Haldex controller is separate to the diff itself - and it would be worthwhile servicing that (the fluid and a new filter don't cost much) to see if that helps. And yes, a replacement rear diff tends to be expensive - if you're going to do that, I'd probably suggest that you look at a third party diff centre (Peloquin or Quaiffe, Wavetrac don't do rear units unfortunately) to see if you can get an improved rear diff at the same time (assuming you don't need a whole near rear end, but rather just the centre).

The crabbing issue people experience is generally related to upgraded haldex controllers (remembering that the stock Haldex controller leaves your car in FWD mode most of the time, only hooking up the rear diff if slip is detected, and disconnecting the rear as soon as you get off the accelerator - the blue haldex upgrade is more aggressive but still disconnects the rears under deceleration/braking, only the comp/orange controller leaves the rear connected under brakes), generally just the orange/comp controller - and even then, talking to HPA, they tell me the issue is that the issue is generally that some cleaning is required of the haldex unit and the needle valve it uses to control the flow of haldex fluid.